How to Add a Pocket to the Side of Leggings

Adding a pocket onto the side of a pair of leggings is a great way to make them more functional. Stick your house key, a cell phone, and some cash in and you’re good to go whether it’s for a jog or for a night out on the town. The Citrus Leggings are a great pattern for adding in an extra pocket because they have a side panel. You can extend your pocket sides into the side panel seams making them extra sturdy. Rather than making a pattern piece, you can cut a rectangle the height you want your finished pocket to be + 1/2″ for seam allowances and wider than the width of View C side where you will be placing the pockets (since you can trim it down after basting it in place). If you’re making Views A or B, you’ll want to sew your Side Front to …

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How to Sew Hidden Wide Waistband Elastic

Wide Elastic Waisted Citrus Leggings by Tuesday Stitches

In this tutorial, we’ll walk you through how to sew wide waistband elastic (or plush waistband elastic) in the inside of a garment waist instead of a casing. We’ve put this tutorial together as a fun hack for the Citrus Leggings, but you can apply it to just about any skirt or pants that uses an elastic waistband. No need to use an elastic the same width as your pattern since we don’t use a casing. Start by cutting a piece of wide waistband elastic to length. Abut the ends and use a wide zig-zag to sew them together. (I used a contrasting thread so you could see what I was doing, but you’ll probably want to use a matching thread as this stitching is visible in the finished garment). This elastic is 2″ wide. You can use anything in the 1-2″ range for this treatment. “Plush back” elastics are …

How to Sew a Wide Waistband on Any Leggings

wide waistband onto citrus leggings by Tuesday Stitches

Pull up some tracing paper and a pen because we’re going to do a little bit of pattern drafting! In this tutorial I’ll show you how to turn any leggings pattern into one with a wide waistband. I’ll be using our Citrus Leggings pattern as an example, but this will work for just about any leggings pattern you have. I’ll also explain THREE different ways to sew the waistband – with hidden elastic, with an elastic channel, and without elastic. 1. Sew and trace Front & Back. Start by sewing the Front and Back separately. We’re sewing and then measuring off of the garment instead of doing all our shaping on the pattern because it means a lot less cutting and pasting and worrying about seam allowances if you have multiples seams in your leggings. (You can use the same principles to work directly from your pattern pieces if you’d rather, …

Sewing the Side Seams of the Citrus Leggings

Sewing the side seams of View A and View B can seem a bit tricky because of the weird pattern piece shapes, but no need to fear! It’s not actually hard to sew them. Here are some photos and extra information to help you through the process. View A: When you sew the Side Front and Side Back together, the pieces will be curved around (even if you sew them to the Front/Back as pictured above (this is a different construction order than suggested in the instructions because I was doing a pattern hack that I’ll show off next week. If you’re following the instructions you’ll just have Side Front & Side Back at this point. It doesn’t make it any different)). If you were to finish the leggings and wear them without adding any elastic to the side they would actually wear just fine. We add in the elastic to …

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Revitalizing a Leather Purse

Revitalized leather purse from Tuesday Stitches

I bought this worn leather purse at the thrift store thinking I would cannibalize it for the pretty hardware. And when I got it cleaned I noticed that the inside had crafty pocket construction so I set it aside thinking I’d wait to cut it apart until I could take some time exploring how the pockets were constructed. And after it had sat in my WIP pile long enough I decided that it was worth seeing if I could perk the leather back up and give it a second life as is. I think she’s looking good and ready to live her second life! I’m certainly no expert, but I did do a fair bit of reading to figure out the best approach to bring old leather back to life and the following was my approach. Clean the bag. I had already given the purse a thorough cleaning with soap …

Sewing the Bralette in the Tropo Camisole

The optional built-in bralette in the Tropo Camisole does make it a bit harder to sew the camisole, but I think it’s totally worth it. Personally, I wear my Tropos all the time and only wear them with bralettes because I don’t need a lot of bust support and I love the fact that I don’t have to worry about bra straps showing under the camisole. If you’d like to sew a bralette into your Tropo Camisole but want a little extra hand-holding, read on! You can sew the bralette out of a variety of fabrics. (See the Tropo Camisole Fabric post and the Tropo Camisole Bralette Fabric post for more info). This example is using a sport lycra. Depending on your bust size and shape, desired level of support, and the fabric you are using, you may wish to change the shape of the bralette. I shaved off about …

How to Sew the Straps on the Tropo Camisole

Sometimes it’s nice to have some extra hand-holding through a tricky sewing step, isn’t it? This blog post will walk you through how to to sew all of the versions of the straps on the Tropo Camisole with an emphasis on the V-strap version since it can be a little intimidating. My favorite version is the V-strap on both front and back since it’s super fun and a little bit sexy and, hopefully, if you were worried about it being too hard, this post will convince you that you can do it!. (And if it’s not you’re thing, that’s cool too. Read along for the other strap configurations too!). If you’re using a bralette, make sure that it’s done and basted to the camisole all along the top – neckline and underarm both. Finish the neckline of both the front and back of the Tropo Camisole with fold-over elastic. (Read all about …

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Tropo Camisole Bralette Fabric and Elastic Selection

For the bralette of the Tropo Camisole, you can use any fabric that you use for body, but you also have other options. In this post we’ll talk about the pros and cons of the various fabric options. Before delving into bralette fabric, read the post on selecting fabric for the Tropo Camisole. The choices you make for your bralette fabric will greatly depend on how much support and coverage you want. Fabric Options: The easiest choice for your bralette is to use the same fabric as the body of your camisole. Similar to when you’re choosing the main fabric, you’ll want to consider weight, stretch, and recovery. I’ve made the bralette for many of my Tropo Camisoles with interlock knit and I think it’s a great choice for me because it’s thick enough to offer some nipple coverage and it has recovery (I’ve found most all interlock knits to …

Size Selection and Grading for the Laminaria Swimsuit

Grading the Laminaria Swimsuit by Tuesday Stitches

Just like ready-to-wear clothes don’t fit most bodies straight off the shelf (that’s one of the reasons you sew, right!?), sewing patterns often won’t fit you perfectly without some adjustments as well. Here I’ll show you how to grade and make fit adjustments specifically for the Laminaria Swimsuit. Pop over and read “Choosing a Size for a Swimsuit Pattern” before delving further here. If you need to shorten or lengthen your Laminaria, read that tutorial here. All of these adjustments are shown for the plain view. You can use the same principles to adjust the view with the inset, carrying your adjustments across both the main and the contrast fabrics. Sewing a “muslin”: It may be kind of funny to call it a muslin since you most definitely can’t sew this pattern out of actual muslin, but it’s always a good principle to sew a draft of something before cutting …

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How to Hide the Join of Wide Elastic Straps on a Swimsuit

How to Hide the Join of Wide Elastic Straps on a Swimsuit

One of the easiest ways to make a swimsuit more supportive for larger busts is to sew wider straps. It’s also a cute way to make your suit sportier, regardless of your need for support. Check out our tutorial here for a couple different ways to sew wider straps. In this example I used a wide plush-back waistband elastic for my straps which is lots of fun, but the join between elastic and swimsuit isn’t as pretty as with a narrower strap so I wanted a creative way to cover the join. The Laminaria Swimsuit normally uses a small facing to neatly join the narrow strap to the top of the front, but that same technique doesn’t work well with the wide elastic. It looks okay, but I wanted to figure out a simple way to make the join look even better than okay. Cut a little rectangle of fabric …

Alternative Construction Order for the Tropo Camisole

The Tropo Camisole instructions are written so that you can sew them on a basic sewing machine without any extra fancy attachments. But what if you want to use a coverstitch machine and/or a binding attacher? No problem! You just have to change the order of construction a bit and we’ll talk you through how to do that. Why didn’t we include this method in the instructions? It has a number of drawbacks that you should note: this construction order is not compatible with the built-in bralette. This method also uses more fold-over elastic (FOE) than the normal method. You also can’t baste on your straps to make sure they’re the right length before sewing them on so you’ll have to rely on the suggested lengths in the pattern or sew a test camisole (using the same FOE as FOE stretchiness can vary) first. We’re not going to talk through …

Adding Adjustable Straps to Your Tropo Camisole

Though the beauty of making a garment for yourself is that you can make it to fit you exactly, there are certainly still reasons you may want to make a garment adjustable. The Tropo Camisole is designed to have straps of a set length, sewn from fold-over elastic (FOE), but whether you’re sewing for a friend who can’t try on the camisole, know that your body will be changing size (remember that the Tropo Camisole has a nursing option!), don’t want to have to worry about the elastic stretching out over time, or just like the lingerie-inspired look, adjustable straps are a great option! To change your Tropo Camisole straps into lingerie-inspired adjustable straps you will need more fold-over elastic (FOE), 2 rings, and 2 sliders. You want your rings and sliders to be sized so that the FOE fits nicely in them when it is folded in half. In …

Tropo Camisole with Stretch Lace Straps

Tropo Camisole by Tuesday Stitches. Camisole sewing pattern.

I think I had even more fun coming up with hacks for the Tropo Camisole that I did for the pattern itself. And this might be my favorite hack! Replacing the fold-over-elastic with stretch lace is easy to do but it really glams up the camisole. (For another alternative to FOE, see our Tropo Camisole with ribbing hack). This example uses stretch lace that is 1″ wide and shows the full width across front and back but uses 1/2 width across the straps. You can use narrower or wider lace but do make sure that it is stretch lace as it will need to be able to stretch with the knit camisole on your body. If desired, start by finishing the neckline on the front and back of your camisole. I opted to serge the top of this fabric for a clean edge as I wanted it to look visually finished, …

How to Sew Wide Swimsuit Straps

Our Laminaria Swimsuit was designed with spaghetti straps. One of the questions we get, particularly from those with larger busts looking for more support, is if it is possible to sew the Laminaria Swimsuit with wide straps. Yes! Below, we describe 3 different ways to sew wide swimsuit straps that can be substituted on the Laminaria Swimsuit or any other swimsuit with narrow straps that you want to increase the width. The 3 different methods are from fabric, from fabric covered elastic, and from decorative elastic. (Shown above is our Laminaria Swimsuit with contrast covered edges, wide decorative elastic straps (described below), hidden elastic join (tutorial coming soon), and raised leg (tutorial coming soon)). Fabric Straps: A simple way to increase the width of your straps is to sew fabric tubes. Cut four strips of fabric your desired length and 1/2″ wider than your desired width. Sew the fabric right …

All About Fold-Over-Elastic (FOE) and How to Sew It

In developing our Tropo Camisole pattern it feels like we’ve sewn enough fold-over elastic (FOE) to reach to the moon and back! We’ve assembled here everything we’ve learned about FOE along the way to help you get started with sewing your own FOE! What is FOE? FOE stands for Fold-Over-Elastic. It is a lightweight elastic that has a crease down the middle of it. It often has one shiny side (usually considered the right side) and one matte side (usually considered the wrong side) and can be found in a variety of colors and a variety of patterns. The crease allows you to fold the elastic perfectly in half. FOE can be found in a variety of qualities and you may find some are soft while some are scratchy (particularly metallic colors). Some FOEs have better recovery than others (recovery is how well it springs back after you stretch it). …

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All About Bias Tape (and How to Make Your Own)

It’s true that it’s generally easier to just buy a package of pre-made bias tape, but we don’t sew our own clothes because it’s easy, do we? I like to make my own bias tape most of the time because I can get a perfect color match and I can match the weight, hand, and fiber content of the main fabric. Pre-packaged bias tape is generally a cotton-poly blend and is pretty stiff. That might be just fine if you’re putting a Hong Kong finish on the seams of a denim jacket, but if you have a cotton voile or a silk crepe de chine blouse, it’s going to add a stiffness that you won’t want. What is bias tape? Bias tape is simply a strip of fabric that is cut on a 45 degree angle (for a “true bias” because it has the most mechanical stretch). If you’re used …

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Ultraviolet Sweatshirt Hack

Fall is most definitely here. I adore fall. I love putting on rain boots and stomping through puddles. I love apple cakes and spiced cider. I love cuddly sweatshirts. Though I do have one cuddly-but-also-fashionable sweatshirt, there is certainly room in my closet for more. This Ultraviolet Tee hacked into a sweatshirt is a welcome addition! It’s pretty easy to draft your own sleeves to add on to the Ultraviolet Tee to make your own long-sleeve shirt or sweatshirt. Since the tee pattern has a short cut-on sleeve already, it’s really simple to just add length to the bottom. Since the shirt is a boxy style, boxy (i.e. easy!) sleeves are a well suited addition. This is what my sleeve looks like. You can make the wrist narrower or wider, depending on your style preference. It’s likely you’ll want them to be shorter (as I have very long arms). Remember …

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How to Sew French Seams

Haven’t sewn French seams before? You might be wondering: What is a French seam? A French seam is a seam finish that makes a narrow seam that fully encloses the seam allowance in the seam. Why use a French seam? It’s a great seam to use on woven fabrics that are sheer, delicate, or prone to fraying. It’s subtle, unlike a serged seam. Can you sew a French seam on a curve? Yes! Though you will find that the narrower your finished seam is the less it will pull on the curve and that the softer your curve is the easier it is to sew the French seam. How wide is a French seam allowance? A French seam is sewn in two steps and involves trimming of the seam allowance so you can start with whatever seam allowance you want and finish with a French seam of whatever size you …

5 Tips for Sewing a Lace Back Shirt

If you’re wondering how to sew a shirt with lace fabric in the back (like this example) or really any garment that uses lace for part of the garment, then I’ve got a few tips for you! This example is an Ultraviolet Tee sewn out of a lightweight knit front with a loosely woven lace back, but you can use these same tips to combine lace and woven or knit fabric in so many different creative ways. 1. Consider your pattern. You’ll find it easiest to sew and get the cleanest results if you select a pattern that has the fewest seamlines in the section that you would like to be lace. Each seamline is a place where you need to finish or hide the edges of the lace (since you can see through the lace to see the seam allowance on the inside) so the fewer times you need …

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How to Sew a Neckline with Bias Tape

Bias tape is a lovely way to cleanly finished necklines on woven garments. They aren’t hard to sew, they just require some attention to detail and I’ll walk you through those details step by step! These same instructions can be used to finish any garment opening so if you are wondering how to sew an armhole with bias tape or how to sew a hem with bias tape, keep reading! If the pattern you are using doesn’t have a template for your bias strip or instructions on how long to cut the bias tape, carefully measure the opening on your garment. Remember to measure on your seamline (which in this case will be 1/4″ in from the edge of the fabric) and not on the edge of your fabric. Use the very edge of your tape measure to measure the distance instead of laying it flat. Cut your fabric the …

How to Sew Narrow Swimsuit Straps

There’s something ever so satisfying about a crisp little spaghetti strap. Did you know that narrow swimsuit straps are actually really easy to sew? It’s true! Both 1/4″ and 3/8″ spaghetti straps for swimsuits are deceptively easy because we can sew them around the right size elastic for crisp perfection! Start by cutting a strip of your swimsuit fabric that is 1.5″ wide (works for either 1/4″ or 3/8″ elastic. You can use the same technique for wider elastic to make wider straps though you will need wider fabric strips to start). You can sew a single strap that is twice the length of your finished strap and cut it in half when you are done. Align your elastic to one long edge of your strap on the wrong side of the fabric. You can pin it in place before sewing if you prefer or just feed it carefully as …

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How to Print a Layered PDF Sewing Pattern

Tuesday Stitches patterns are published as layered pdfs (wahoo!). What does this mean? It means that each size is on a different layer so that you can select only the size you want to sew for printing. You can also select a cluster of sizes in case you need to grade between sizes or even two totally different sizes if you want to print out your size and your best friend’s size at the same time! Why bother, you might be asking? Of course you can still print all of the sizes like before (pattern pieces are still nested). But you might find it handy to print fewer sizes at a time because the markings on nested patterns can get a bit hard to discern, especially on small pattern pieces. Start by opening your pattern in Adobe Reader. (There are many different programs that open .pdf files but Adobe Reader …

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How to Set Snaps in Clothes

I love using snaps in clothes. Whether it’s attention-grabbing snaps to give a hint of cowgirl on a blouse or subtle snaps down the crotch of  baby clothes to make ins-and-outs easy, snaps are a fun substitution for buttons and useful addition to any sewing project. I use and adore and swear by my SnapSetter tool for how it makes setting snaps almost mistake proof (nothing’s completely mistake proof, if you’re me ;). It’s what I recommend you use and it’s what I’ve geared this tutorial for. If you have snap pliers or an anvil snap setter, I recommend this Seamwork tutorial for using them. But seriously, pick up a SnapSetter for yourself – you won’t regret it! To set snaps you need: Snap Setter snap components (Make sure they are all the same size and the same size as your snap setter. Size 16 is a pretty standard clothing size.) cap …

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How to Make and Use Tailor’s Tacks

Allow me to wax poetic about tailor’s tacks for a moment? When I first started sewing, I figured tailor’s tacks were archaic and complicated and I never bothered to use them because they were hard and I could always use pins or chalk. Well, it turns out that pins fall out and chalk rubs off and tailor’s tack are actually really, really easy to use. I wish I could jump back in time and tell myself this so that I could have fallen in love with tailor’s tacks sooner. Instead, I’ll wax poetic here on my blog and hope that I can jump-start someone else’s love for tailor’s tacks before they might have otherwise fallen in love on their own. So how do you make tailor’s tacks? Easy! Use a contrasting thread doubled through your needle. Bring your needle through both layers of fabric, coming back up as close as possible. You can …

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How to Sew a Cat Bed

I just got another 2 cats. But that doesn’t put me in crazy cat lady status, I swear, since it still adheres to the n+1 rule (where n= number of adults in a household and n+1 is the number of allowable cats before you have a “problem”). I intended to just get one more cat so that Tig could have a companion again, but when we went into the shelter room to meet Etta, Bandit jumped into my lap and started purring and playing with Evie. So I managed to convince my best-ever-in-the-whole-wide-world-husband to let me bring both Bandit and Etta home. Tig still isn’t quite convinced that she wants companions, but a sort of detente has been reached, and I know they’ll be friends soon. Since Bandit & Etta started their introduction to our home by living in the bathroom, I needed to quickly make them beds so they …

How to Sew a Knitting Needle Holder for Circular Needles

I’ve tried a bunch of different ways to organize my circular knitting needles and have never been completely happy. My mom just gave me the rest of her knitting supplies which caused my circular needles to explode out of their most recent not-quite-good-enough configuration which precipitated some emergency sewing of a circular knitting needle holder as I’ve been working hard to get my studio more organized, not less! I really like the solution I came up with. It’s pretty similar to my double-point knitting needle holder with a slightly different configuration. I used some treasured fabric that I bought in Japan when I was in high school – about time I used it! To make the circular knitting needle holder you need: 2 rectangles of fabric 2 pieces of ribbon 2 zippers longer than the length of your fabric tailors chalk (I love chaco liners) straight edge Cut 2 rectangles of …

How to Embroider the Chain Stitch

The chain stitch is my new favorite embroidery stitch. Sorry stem stitch, I’ve replaced you. I want to chain stitch all the things now! Chain stitch is fun to do and, though it takes a little bit to get used to keeping the tension even, it zooms along once you get the hang of it. It makes an interesting outline and an even more interesting textured fill, like I used on the boat above. To embroider the chain stitch, start with your needle coming up from the bottom of your work. Put your needle back into the same hole or right next to it. Pull the needle to the back side but leave the floss as a big loop. Pull the needle through to the right side of your work at the point where you would like the next stitch to start. Gently pull your thread through until the loop you created …

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How to Add In Seam Pockets to the Conifer Skirt

As part of Sewing Indie Month, I’m delighted to share a tutorial from Mari of Seamster Sewing Patterns. What’s better than a pocket? Moar pockets! In this tutorial, Mari will teach you how to add in seam pockets to the Conifer Skirt to compliment the pocket already hidden in the waistband. Hello SeamstressErin readers! My name is Mari from Seamster Sewing Patterns and Sew Independent. I’m excited to bring you a tutorial on sewing stable inseam pockets for Sewing Indie Month. Like many sewers, I love me some pockets. I also love wearing knits. You know what this can lead to, saggy pockets that gape open in an incredibly unattractive way as they bulge out on the sides of your hips. But there is hope! And the secret may very well lie in your stash. For today’s tutorial I’m using Erin’s Conifer Skirt, although you can use the same techniques …

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How to Make An Ironing Board (without needing power tools!)

This ironing board is quite literally a board pimped out for ironing. I think it’s a great addition to any sewing space. I used large boards for ironing when I worked in costume shops and have admired them in some friends’ private sewing spaces. Having the extra ironing surface area is so nice for ironing yardage and provides some peace of mind that my cat won’t knock over the iron when she tries to jump up onto my rickety folding metal ironing board. You don’t even need to have a lot of extra space for an ironing board like this, just a table large enough to set it on, since it can easily be tucked aside when not in use. You need: Plywood (discussed below) 100% cotton batting 100% cotton fabric – pre-washed shears staple gun & staples hammer safety goggles (if you wear glasses, they are probably enough for these circumstances) sound protection …

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How to Sew a Giant Cuff on Jeans

I’m always looking for quirky details I can add to my and sewn garments. On a recent pair of jeans I sewed, I added gigantic cuffs to the bottom. It makes for a unique addition and it’s really quite easy to do. I’ll tell you how! Pattern Selection: Before making major style alterations to a pattern, you want to take a moment to consider whether the base pattern will actually look good with the alteration. (I’m totally guilty of jumping into a pattern hack without carefully considering the finished result just because I’m excited). I think giant cuffs look great on fitted jeans whereas a more modest cuff is a better fit for a wide leg pant – but that’s just my opinion. You’re welcome to another opinion, just make sure you’ve thought about it for a moment! Fabric Selection: While you can tack your giant cuff in place, this sort …