Introducing the Ultraviolet Tee Sleeve Expansion Pack

Ultraviolet Tee Sleeve Expansion Pack by Tuesday Stitches

We’re excited to introduce a sleeve expansion pack for our Ultraviolet Tee pattern! If you’ve already got the Ultraviolet Tee, buy just the sleeve pack. Or buy them together and save! The idea for a sleeve expansion started with a sweatshirt hack I made for myself. (The tutorial for drafting the sleeve yourself is still available here.) I wear this sweatshirt all the time. It inspired me to think of different kinds of sleeves that could be added to the Ultraviolet Tee that complemented the simplicity and oversized shape of the tee. If you’re wanting to keep the same lightweight vibe as the original tee but just want a bit more interest, you can add on a short sleeve (which brings it to about elbow length), a cuffed sleeve, or a cuffed sleeve with a tab. You can add some sun coverage with lightweight fabrics by making a straight, tapered, …

Sewing the Side Seams of the Citrus Leggings

Sewing the side seams of View A and View B can seem a bit tricky because of the weird pattern piece shapes, but no need to fear! It’s not actually hard to sew them. Here are some photos and extra information to help you through the process. View A: When you sew the Side Front and Side Back together, the pieces will be curved around (even if you sew them to the Front/Back as pictured above (this is a different construction order than suggested in the instructions because I was doing a pattern hack that I’ll show off next week. If you’re following the instructions you’ll just have Side Front & Side Back at this point. It doesn’t make it any different)). If you were to finish the leggings and wear them without adding any elastic to the side they would actually wear just fine. We add in the elastic to …

1

How to Sew the Electron Layette in Wovens

While the cardigan and pants in the Electron Layette pattern are intended for knits, it’s pretty simple to sew them with wovens instead which opens up a whole other world of fabric options, like these beautiful fabrics from Shannon Fabrics. I’ll detail how to sew Electron Layette pants and cardigan with wovens so you can do the same! To sew the Electron Layette pants in a woven fabric you’ll want to add a bit of extra width to the waist and the ankle but keep the length the same – the woven won’t stretch like the knit so you need the extra width to make it easy to pull on and off. I recommend tracing your pattern up a size but keeping the original length. While you’re tracing, you’ll want to remove a little bit of the taper at the ankle. The red lines in the diagram show what it …

Fabric Selection for the Citrus Leggings

Erin in Citrus Leggings by Tuesday Stitches - View A

The Citrus Leggings are designed for a stretch knit with 40% horizontal stretch and some vertical stretch. That means that a piece of fabric that is 5″ wide will easily stretch from side to side until it is 7″ wide and when you pull it from top to bottom it will have a little stretch as well. Vertical stretch isn’t strictly necessary, but it does make it more comfortable to have the leggings snug through the crotch since it gives them a bit of movement. Here are a few suggestions of different fabrics that fit this category and what to consider when sewing with them. Stretch velvets are an on-trend fabric right now that work really well. You do need to pay attention to nap when cutting, though the cutting diagrams are laid out assuming your fabric has directionality so you can just follow the cutting diagram. You’ll find that …

Couch Pillows and Needlepoint Intestines

There’s only so  much time and energy in a day, and doing things around the house feels like it takes FOREVER because there always seems to be a domino effect. We can’t decorate the TV room until we get a credenza for the TV but we can’t get a credenza for the TV until we have the floors redone but we can’t get the floors redone until there’s pavers down in front of the basement doors so they can get supplies in and the pavers can’t go in until… Oh my. Well, enough dominos have fallen at this point that we have new “luxury vinyl” floors (instead of really nasty carpet) in the basement and I’m saying to heck with everything else because I don’t want to begrudge how unfinished the room is every time we snuggle up for a movie in here (and, honestly, every day since I have …

5

Passover/Easter/Birthday Dresses

Vintage floral mother daughter dresses on Tuesday Stitches

I suppose now that Fall has well and truly set in that it’s about time I get a blog post up about my favorite Spring and Summer outfits! I made my dress in time for Passover/Easter this year and finished Evelyn’s matching dress in time for us both to wear them for her birthday the next month. Words cannot describe how much I love our outfits! This dress is seriously everything I love in a dress – pattern clashing, bright colors, bold florals, empire waist, sundress and apparently even ruffles (a trend I was very late to jump onto but I seem to have embraced wholeheartedly). For Evelyn’s dress I used Simplicity 6184 from 1983 (though it could easily be from any number of decades). Since I cut and sewed my dress fist, Evie’s dress fabric choices were constrained by what I could fit on the scraps I had left …

Citrus Leggings Pattern Testers

Wendy in Citrus Leggings by Tuesday Stitches

The Citrus Leggings were a looooong time in the making (more on that in their introductory post) so I had a LOT of pattern testers. This is just a sampling of the many awesome folks who helped me along the way. I’m appreciative of the help I received from every single tester and I hope you’ll enjoy seeing a sampling of the fun leggings and reading some thoughts about the pattern. If you look closely you’ll see a mix of View A (gathers along the side), View B (gathers along the front/back), and View C (plain side). A number of testers got creative with color blocking. Make sure you look for the leggings made with a striped fabric to see the very cool effect you get on the side of the leg! (Click here to read more about pattern testing for Tuesday stitches and sign up to be notified of …

3

Carpet Bag Knitting Bag

Carpet bag style purse handmade from vintage needlepoint chair seats

You know those projects where you have a great idea and the bits and pieces for sitting around for, oh, say, several years before you get around to sewing them? And then you’re like “that took me one evening why the heck did I wait so long?” Yeah, this is exactly that kind of project. Many years ago my great grandmother Roseada gave me a carpetbag that was hers that I adored and used to carry my knitting. I can’t actually remember when I lost it but I do remember being sad that it got lost. Since then I’ve carried my knitting around in various little zippered pouches which is great for lace and socks, but bigger knits really deserve something prettier than the ziploc bags they end up in when they outgrow my zippered pouches! My mom found these pretty vintage needlepoint chair seats in an antique store and bought …

9

Aladdin Sane Shirt

Aladdin Sane vintage WilliWear shirt by Tuesday Stitches

Generally, my style philosophy is “go big or go home.” I designed this fabric with that philosophy in mind but it has sat on my shelf for a few years as I never quite seem to figure out how to pair it with a pattern that does it justice. I had thought of a fitted shirtdress when I designed it but it turned out a little too large scale. And then, while digging through my men’s pattern collection while looking for something else entirely, I found McCall’s 9628 by Willi Smith for WilliWear from 1985. And a lightbulb went off. I find androgyny really sexy on other people, but it’s not a style that I’m very comfortable in myself, despite (or perhaps because of) having a body type that suits androgyny. I tried to style this shirt femme. I tried it with a little skirt. I tried it with a big …

Sewing the Bralette in the Tropo Camisole

The optional built-in bralette in the Tropo Camisole does make it a bit harder to sew the camisole, but I think it’s totally worth it. Personally, I wear my Tropos all the time and only wear them with bralettes because I don’t need a lot of bust support and I love the fact that I don’t have to worry about bra straps showing under the camisole. If you’d like to sew a bralette into your Tropo Camisole but want a little extra hand-holding, read on! You can sew the bralette out of a variety of fabrics. (See the Tropo Camisole Fabric post and the Tropo Camisole Bralette Fabric post for more info). This example is using a sport lycra. Depending on your bust size and shape, desired level of support, and the fabric you are using, you may wish to change the shape of the bralette. I shaved off about …

How to Sew the Straps on the Tropo Camisole

Sometimes it’s nice to have some extra hand-holding through a tricky sewing step, isn’t it? This blog post will walk you through how to to sew all of the versions of the straps on the Tropo Camisole with an emphasis on the V-strap version since it can be a little intimidating. My favorite version is the V-strap on both front and back since it’s super fun and a little bit sexy and, hopefully, if you were worried about it being too hard, this post will convince you that you can do it!. (And if it’s not you’re thing, that’s cool too. Read along for the other strap configurations too!). If you’re using a bralette, make sure that it’s done and basted to the camisole all along the top – neckline and underarm both. Finish the neckline of both the front and back of the Tropo Camisole with fold-over elastic. (Read all about …

2

Tropo Camisole Bralette Fabric and Elastic Selection

For the bralette of the Tropo Camisole, you can use any fabric that you use for body, but you also have other options. In this post we’ll talk about the pros and cons of the various fabric options. Before delving into bralette fabric, read the post on selecting fabric for the Tropo Camisole. The choices you make for your bralette fabric will greatly depend on how much support and coverage you want. Fabric Options: The easiest choice for your bralette is to use the same fabric as the body of your camisole. Similar to when you’re choosing the main fabric, you’ll want to consider weight, stretch, and recovery. I’ve made the bralette for many of my Tropo Camisoles with interlock knit and I think it’s a great choice for me because it’s thick enough to offer some nipple coverage and it has recovery (I’ve found most all interlock knits to …

1

Vintage Simplicity 9722 Toddler Jumper

When you ask my toddler to smile, this is what you get. I have no idea why she thinks this is smiling, but we’re just gonna run with it because, while it may not be smiling, it’s certainly cute. I also have no idea why she thinks a dryer ball makes a good photoshoot prop, but she insisted on it being included. So this is my toddler “smiling” while holding a dryer ball. #parentlife When I bought the notions for my railroad stripe overalls I bought the overall buckles in a couple different sizes. I went with the larger for my overalls and decided to use the smaller to make Evelyn this vintage Simplicity 9722 overall dress from 1980. It’s a pretty timeless pattern, other than the fact that I used glaringly 70’s ditsy floral twill that I found at the thrift store. #noregrets. (Okay, one regret – that it …

Size Selection and Grading for the Laminaria Swimsuit

Grading the Laminaria Swimsuit by Tuesday Stitches

Just like ready-to-wear clothes don’t fit most bodies straight off the shelf (that’s one of the reasons you sew, right!?), sewing patterns often won’t fit you perfectly without some adjustments as well. Here I’ll show you how to grade and make fit adjustments specifically for the Laminaria Swimsuit. Pop over and read “Choosing a Size for a Swimsuit Pattern” before delving further here. If you need to shorten or lengthen your Laminaria, read that tutorial here. All of these adjustments are shown for the plain view. You can use the same principles to adjust the view with the inset, carrying your adjustments across both the main and the contrast fabrics. Sewing a “muslin”: It may be kind of funny to call it a muslin since you most definitely can’t sew this pattern out of actual muslin, but it’s always a good principle to sew a draft of something before cutting …

8

Baseball Outfit

I’m not sure why Evelyn likes my Baseball Staple Dress so much. Maybe because she knows her Nana and Baba like baseball a lot? Regardless of the reason, when I was sorting through my scrap bin to sew her some summer clothes, I knew that the last beloved bits of this silly fabric needed to be sewn up for her. I used vintage Simplicity 9238 from 1971 for the dress and bloomers. There wasn’t quite enough fabric to fit the flare of the dress pattern piece so I inset a contrast strip at the side. The bloomers are oddly long but they ride up her legs into one giant puff which may not look cute on an adult but frankly anything is cute on a 2-year-old so I’m not going to try and fix it. I did make one gaff when sewing the dress – somehow I lost the collar …

Fabric Choices for the Tropo Camisole

tropo camisole with sexy v straps by Tuesday Stitches

Like any sewing pattern, the Tropo Camisole can be made from a variety of fabrics. We recommend knits with 40% stretch, though you can use a slightly less/more stretchy fabric (though you may want to go up/down a size, more on that below). Jersey is the most obvious choice though you can also use interlock, thermal, ribbing, sport lycra, and others. Below, we share examples of Tropo Camisoles made in different fabrics so we can highlight the good and bad in the subtly different fabrics (and so you can see what they might look like). The things you’ll want to pay attention to: weight, drape, stretch, and recovery. Weight & Drape: This grey Tropo is made from the most lightweight of the fabrics we’ve used. It’s a jersey with some rayon content and 40% stretch. I love this one as a base layer for layering (it was my go-to all …

3

How to Hide the Join of Wide Elastic Straps on a Swimsuit

How to Hide the Join of Wide Elastic Straps on a Swimsuit

One of the easiest ways to make a swimsuit more supportive for larger busts is to sew wider straps. It’s also a cute way to make your suit sportier, regardless of your need for support. Check out our tutorial here for a couple different ways to sew wider straps. In this example I used a wide plush-back waistband elastic for my straps which is lots of fun, but the join between elastic and swimsuit isn’t as pretty as with a narrower strap so I wanted a creative way to cover the join. The Laminaria Swimsuit normally uses a small facing to neatly join the narrow strap to the top of the front, but that same technique doesn’t work well with the wide elastic. It looks okay, but I wanted to figure out a simple way to make the join look even better than okay. Cut a little rectangle of fabric …

8

Mila Overalls in Railroad Stripe

Some people, when they have kids, dress their children to look like them. I’ve always kind of dressed myself like an overgrown toddler so instead, now that I have a kid, I get to dress myself to look like her. She’s had this adorable little pair of OshKosh B’Gosh railroad stripe overalls for quite a while. And now I have a pair of overalls to match! When my friend Kate at The Confident Stitch offered to send me some denim, all sorts of ideas ran through my head, but I just kept coming back to this beautiful Robert Kaufman reversible stretch denim. I kept thinking that to do it justice I needed to find a way to show off the fact that it is reversible, but you can see that I ended up going grown-up toddler instead. I used Tilly and the Buttons Mila dungaree pattern. I wanted the fitted …

Adding Adjustable Straps to Your Tropo Camisole

Though the beauty of making a garment for yourself is that you can make it to fit you exactly, there are certainly still reasons you may want to make a garment adjustable. The Tropo Camisole is designed to have straps of a set length, sewn from fold-over elastic (FOE), but whether you’re sewing for a friend who can’t try on the camisole, know that your body will be changing size (remember that the Tropo Camisole has a nursing option!), don’t want to have to worry about the elastic stretching out over time, or just like the lingerie-inspired look, adjustable straps are a great option! To change your Tropo Camisole straps into lingerie-inspired adjustable straps you will need more fold-over elastic (FOE), 2 rings, and 2 sliders. You want your rings and sliders to be sized so that the FOE fits nicely in them when it is folded in half. In …

4

Ultraviolet Tee Pattern Now With View C!

The Ultraviolet Tee had plenty of options when it was published. A curved cropped hem or a straight un-cropped hem. A plain front or a darted or gathered front to accommodate a D-F (or larger) cup bust. Different cut lines for knit or woven fabric. But a quick pattern hack that I did on a shirt for myself quickly became my favorite Ultraviolet Tee to wear so I decided to update the pattern with a View C. View C extends the curved hem in front and back so you have a high-drama slit at the side but the shirt is full length at the front and back so there’s no risk of peek-a-boo belly like with the cropped version. This sample was sewn out of a double gauze given to me by Shannon Fabrics. I chose the print because I think the simple, oversized silhouette of the Ultraviolet Tee is …

7

80’s Floral Blouse – Simplicity 5818

vintage 80s floral blouse - Simplicity 5818 - by Erin of Tuesday Stitches

Ready for some ruffled ridiculousness? floral fabulousness? eighties excitement? (awful alliteration?) Because I’ve got all of that in spades with this new blouse! Sidenote: Did you know that the phrase “in spades” is likely to have originated as a reference to the card suit thanks to the game of Bridge? I’ve been reading a hilarious memoir of a man who read the entire Encyclopedia Britannica (The Know It All: One Man’s Humble Quest to Become the Smartest Person in the World) and it’s littered with ridiculous trivia that he pulled from his reading which seems to have inspired me to pepper my own life with useless trivia. I recommend the book, regardless. When I found this blouse pattern at the thrift store I have literally no idea why it so captured my heart. Of all vintage fashion decades, the 80’s are probably my least favorite. I’m not a big fan …

8

Camisole Dress Hack from the Tropo Camisole

I hadn’t even thought about hacking the Tropo Camisole into a dress until I got feedback from my Tropo Camisole pattern testers and discovered that Maria had made a couple different dresses while testing the pattern so of course I had to copy her idea because imitation is the highest form of flattery and I thought her idea was great! It’s pretty simple to turn the Tropo Camisole into a dress, but you do need to consider the width of your hips. This will be a fitted dress with negative ease through the hips (to be consistent with the negative ease in the upper part of the camisole) so you should end up with a hip measurement on your finished dress that is a few inches smaller than the width of your body. There can actually be a lot of variability in this number from one person’s “perfect fit” to …

6

Floral Fumeterre Skirt

If you’ll allow me, for a moment, to pretend that time isn’t remotely linear (sidenote: if you’ve never read Einstein’s Dreams I highly recommend it for a fascinating exploration of different ways that time could be and what that would mean for humanity), then I’ll share this white cotton floral skirt that I actually sewed last fall (after sewing my clearly-meant-for-fall Afghan Nomad Dress) just as warm weather fizzled out and it wasn’t really appropriate to wear white cotton. Now that weather is warming up, I’m definitely enjoying wearing it as I adore floral prints and I adore maxi skirts. It took me several photoshoots to end up with photos that I feel “meh” about, which is better than the “ugh” that I started with. But it does leave me wondering if this skirt is better in theory than it is in practice? It’s a fumeterre by Deer & Doe and …

Tropo Camisole with Stretch Lace Straps

Tropo Camisole by Tuesday Stitches. Camisole sewing pattern.

I think I had even more fun coming up with hacks for the Tropo Camisole that I did for the pattern itself. And this might be my favorite hack! Replacing the fold-over-elastic with stretch lace is easy to do but it really glams up the camisole. (For another alternative to FOE, see our Tropo Camisole with ribbing hack). This example uses stretch lace that is 1″ wide and shows the full width across front and back but uses 1/2 width across the straps. You can use narrower or wider lace but do make sure that it is stretch lace as it will need to be able to stretch with the knit camisole on your body. If desired, start by finishing the neckline on the front and back of your camisole. I opted to serge the top of this fabric for a clean edge as I wanted it to look visually finished, …

3

70’s Leopard Print Wrap Dress – Vintage Vogue 7705

Vintage Vogue 7705 - 1970's leopard print wrap dress. Sewn by Erin of Tuesday Stitches.

I like to sew a new dress every year to wear for winter events. This year I got this dress done just in the knick of time to wear to a secret surprise date night I planned for Adam in December. We dropped Biscuit off with her grandparents, got a hotel room in the city for the night so we wouldn’t have to rush to catch a ferry home, went out to a fancy dinner, and went to see Elf: The Musical. For the years that Adam and I were dating, my mom would always let him pick the Christmas movie that we would watch as a family when we were home for the holidays. Every year he picks Elf. So it has kind of become a running joke between us and it seemed the perfect, silly, fun thing to surprise him with. I did make a quick muslin of …

How to Sew Wide Swimsuit Straps

Our Laminaria Swimsuit was designed with spaghetti straps. One of the questions we get, particularly from those with larger busts looking for more support, is if it is possible to sew the Laminaria Swimsuit with wide straps. Yes! Below, we describe 3 different ways to sew wide swimsuit straps that can be substituted on the Laminaria Swimsuit or any other swimsuit with narrow straps that you want to increase the width. The 3 different methods are from fabric, from fabric covered elastic, and from decorative elastic. (Shown above is our Laminaria Swimsuit with contrast covered edges, wide decorative elastic straps (described below), hidden elastic join (tutorial coming soon), and raised leg (tutorial coming soon)). Fabric Straps: A simple way to increase the width of your straps is to sew fabric tubes. Cut four strips of fabric your desired length and 1/2″ wider than your desired width. Sew the fabric right …

All About Fold-Over-Elastic (FOE) and How to Sew It

In developing our Tropo Camisole pattern it feels like we’ve sewn enough fold-over elastic (FOE) to reach to the moon and back! We’ve assembled here everything we’ve learned about FOE along the way to help you get started with sewing your own FOE! What is FOE? FOE stands for Fold-Over-Elastic. It is a lightweight elastic that has a crease down the middle of it. It often has one shiny side (usually considered the right side) and one matte side (usually considered the wrong side) and can be found in a variety of colors and a variety of patterns. The crease allows you to fold the elastic perfectly in half. FOE can be found in a variety of qualities and you may find some are soft while some are scratchy (particularly metallic colors). Some FOEs have better recovery than others (recovery is how well it springs back after you stretch it). …

1

Toddler Electron Layette

The question that I get the most about my Electron Layette pattern is “can a toddler climb around in it?” People are worried that a toddler’s movement might be restricted by the drop crotch of the pant and Evelyn is here to show you conclusively that she’s able to be as much of a climbing-jumping-running-flopping maniac in these pants as any others! Of course I didn’t manage to get any great action shots since she’s always moving too fast! (Though I did just buy a new lens for my camera so indoor action shots should be easier from here on out). So hopefully you’ll believe me :) This set is sewn in size 2 yrs though Evelyn is somewhere between 18 months and 2 yrs in sizing so she has a bit of room to grow. She’s no longer interested in wearing the hat that is a part of the …

9

Plaid Flannel Pajama Set – Vintage Butterick 5744 and Simplicity 6664

Every year on Christmas Eve I would get to open one present before going to bed. Somehow it took me something like 15 years to figure out that that one present was always new pajamas. I want to keep the tradition going for my own daughter (and time will tell if she’s quicker on the uptake than I am). Last year (her first Christmas) I bought pajamas for the family but this year I felt like I had the time and bandwidth to make them. I don’t want to give myself pressure to make them every year, but, instead, celebrate the years I do get to make them. My friend Marissa recently brought me a stack of fabric that she had inherited – she picked out everything loud and/or pink to give to me (she knows me well). I’ve been wanting some pajamas for myself that are cozy but still …

4

All About Bias Tape (and How to Make Your Own)

It’s true that it’s generally easier to just buy a package of pre-made bias tape, but we don’t sew our own clothes because it’s easy, do we? I like to make my own bias tape most of the time because I can get a perfect color match and I can match the weight, hand, and fiber content of the main fabric. Pre-packaged bias tape is generally a cotton-poly blend and is pretty stiff. That might be just fine if you’re putting a Hong Kong finish on the seams of a denim jacket, but if you have a cotton voile or a silk crepe de chine blouse, it’s going to add a stiffness that you won’t want. What is bias tape? Bias tape is simply a strip of fabric that is cut on a 45 degree angle (for a “true bias” because it has the most mechanical stretch). If you’re used …