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Aladdin Sane Shirt

Aladdin Sane vintage WilliWear shirt by Tuesday Stitches

Generally, my style philosophy is “go big or go home.” I designed this fabric with that philosophy in mind but it has sat on my shelf for a few years as I never quite seem to figure out how to pair it with a pattern that does it justice. I had thought of a fitted shirtdress when I designed it but it turned out a little too large scale. And then, while digging through my men’s pattern collection while looking for something else entirely, I found McCall’s 9628 by Willi Smith for WilliWear from 1985. And a lightbulb went off. I find androgyny really sexy on other people, but it’s not a style that I’m very comfortable in myself, despite (or perhaps because of) having a body type that suits androgyny. I tried to style this shirt femme. I tried it with a little skirt. I tried it with a big …

Sewing the Bralette in the Tropo Camisole

The optional built-in bralette in the Tropo Camisole does make it a bit harder to sew the camisole, but I think it’s totally worth it. Personally, I wear my Tropos all the time and only wear them with bralettes because I don’t need a lot of bust support and I love the fact that I don’t have to worry about bra straps showing under the camisole. If you’d like to sew a bralette into your Tropo Camisole but want a little extra hand-holding, read on! You can sew the bralette out of a variety of fabrics. (See the Tropo Camisole Fabric post and the Tropo Camisole Bralette Fabric post for more info). This example is using a sport lycra. Depending on your bust size and shape, desired level of support, and the fabric you are using, you may wish to change the shape of the bralette. I shaved off about …

How to Sew the Straps on the Tropo Camisole

Sometimes it’s nice to have some extra hand-holding through a tricky sewing step, isn’t it? This blog post will walk you through how to to sew all of the versions of the straps on the Tropo Camisole with an emphasis on the V-strap version since it can be a little intimidating. My favorite version is the V-strap on both front and back since it’s super fun and a little bit sexy and, hopefully, if you were worried about it being too hard, this post will convince you that you can do it!. (And if it’s not you’re thing, that’s cool too. Read along for the other strap configurations too!). If you’re using a bralette, make sure that it’s done and basted to the camisole all along the top – neckline and underarm both. Finish the neckline of both the front and back of the Tropo Camisole with fold-over elastic. (Read all about …

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Tropo Camisole Bralette Fabric and Elastic Selection

For the bralette of the Tropo Camisole, you can use any fabric that you use for body, but you also have other options. In this post we’ll talk about the pros and cons of the various fabric options. Before delving into bralette fabric, read the post on selecting fabric for the Tropo Camisole. The choices you make for your bralette fabric will greatly depend on how much support and coverage you want. Fabric Options: The easiest choice for your bralette is to use the same fabric as the body of your camisole. Similar to when you’re choosing the main fabric, you’ll want to consider weight, stretch, and recovery. I’ve made the bralette for many of my Tropo Camisoles with interlock knit and I think it’s a great choice for me because it’s thick enough to offer some nipple coverage and it has recovery (I’ve found most all interlock knits to …

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Vintage Simplicity 9722 Toddler Jumper

When you ask my toddler to smile, this is what you get. I have no idea why she thinks this is smiling, but we’re just gonna run with it because, while it may not be smiling, it’s certainly cute. I also have no idea why she thinks a dryer ball makes a good photoshoot prop, but she insisted on it being included. So this is my toddler “smiling” while holding a dryer ball. #parentlife When I bought the notions for my railroad stripe overalls I bought the overall buckles in a couple different sizes. I went with the larger for my overalls and decided to use the smaller to make Evelyn this vintage Simplicity 9722 overall dress from 1980. It’s a pretty timeless pattern, other than the fact that I used glaringly 70’s ditsy floral twill that I found at the thrift store. #noregrets. (Okay, one regret – that it …

Size Selection and Grading for the Laminaria Swimsuit

Grading the Laminaria Swimsuit by Tuesday Stitches

Just like ready-to-wear clothes don’t fit most bodies straight off the shelf (that’s one of the reasons you sew, right!?), sewing patterns often won’t fit you perfectly without some adjustments as well. Here I’ll show you how to grade and make fit adjustments specifically for the Laminaria Swimsuit. Pop over and read “Choosing a Size for a Swimsuit Pattern” before delving further here. If you need to shorten or lengthen your Laminaria, read that tutorial here. All of these adjustments are shown for the plain view. You can use the same principles to adjust the view with the inset, carrying your adjustments across both the main and the contrast fabrics. Sewing a “muslin”: It may be kind of funny to call it a muslin since you most definitely can’t sew this pattern out of actual muslin, but it’s always a good principle to sew a draft of something before cutting …

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Baseball Outfit

I’m not sure why Evelyn likes my Baseball Staple Dress so much. Maybe because she knows her Nana and Baba like baseball a lot? Regardless of the reason, when I was sorting through my scrap bin to sew her some summer clothes, I knew that the last beloved bits of this silly fabric needed to be sewn up for her. I used vintage Simplicity 9238 from 1971 for the dress and bloomers. There wasn’t quite enough fabric to fit the flare of the dress pattern piece so I inset a contrast strip at the side. The bloomers are oddly long but they ride up her legs into one giant puff which may not look cute on an adult but frankly anything is cute on a 2-year-old so I’m not going to try and fix it. I did make one gaff when sewing the dress – somehow I lost the collar …

Fabric Choices for the Tropo Camisole

tropo camisole with sexy v straps by Tuesday Stitches

Like any sewing pattern, the Tropo Camisole can be made from a variety of fabrics. We recommend knits with 40% stretch, though you can use a slightly less/more stretchy fabric (though you may want to go up/down a size, more on that below). Jersey is the most obvious choice though you can also use interlock, thermal, ribbing, sport lycra, and others. Below, we share examples of Tropo Camisoles made in different fabrics so we can highlight the good and bad in the subtly different fabrics (and so you can see what they might look like). The things you’ll want to pay attention to: weight, drape, stretch, and recovery. Weight & Drape: This grey Tropo is made from the most lightweight of the fabrics we’ve used. It’s a jersey with some rayon content and 40% stretch. I love this one as a base layer for layering (it was my go-to all …

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How to Hide the Join of Wide Elastic Straps on a Swimsuit

How to Hide the Join of Wide Elastic Straps on a Swimsuit

One of the easiest ways to make a swimsuit more supportive for larger busts is to sew wider straps. It’s also a cute way to make your suit sportier, regardless of your need for support. Check out our tutorial here for a couple different ways to sew wider straps. In this example I used a wide plush-back waistband elastic for my straps which is lots of fun, but the join between elastic and swimsuit isn’t as pretty as with a narrower strap so I wanted a creative way to cover the join. The Laminaria Swimsuit normally uses a small facing to neatly join the narrow strap to the top of the front, but that same technique doesn’t work well with the wide elastic. It looks okay, but I wanted to figure out a simple way to make the join look even better than okay. Cut a little rectangle of fabric …

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Mila Overalls in Railroad Stripe

Some people, when they have kids, dress their children to look like them. I’ve always kind of dressed myself like an overgrown toddler so instead, now that I have a kid, I get to dress myself to look like her. She’s had this adorable little pair of OshKosh B’Gosh railroad stripe overalls for quite a while. And now I have a pair of overalls to match! When my friend Kate at The Confident Stitch offered to send me some denim, all sorts of ideas ran through my head, but I just kept coming back to this beautiful Robert Kaufman reversible stretch denim. I kept thinking that to do it justice I needed to find a way to show off the fact that it is reversible, but you can see that I ended up going grown-up toddler instead. I used Tilly and the Buttons Mila dungaree pattern. I wanted the fitted …

Adding Adjustable Straps to Your Tropo Camisole

Though the beauty of making a garment for yourself is that you can make it to fit you exactly, there are certainly still reasons you may want to make a garment adjustable. The Tropo Camisole is designed to have straps of a set length, sewn from fold-over elastic (FOE), but whether you’re sewing for a friend who can’t try on the camisole, know that your body will be changing size (remember that the Tropo Camisole has a nursing option!), don’t want to have to worry about the elastic stretching out over time, or just like the lingerie-inspired look, adjustable straps are a great option! To change your Tropo Camisole straps into lingerie-inspired adjustable straps you will need more fold-over elastic (FOE), 2 rings, and 2 sliders. You want your rings and sliders to be sized so that the FOE fits nicely in them when it is folded in half. In …

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Ultraviolet Tee Pattern Now With View C!

The Ultraviolet Tee had plenty of options when it was published. A curved cropped hem or a straight un-cropped hem. A plain front or a darted or gathered front to accommodate a D-F (or larger) cup bust. Different cut lines for knit or woven fabric. But a quick pattern hack that I did on a shirt for myself quickly became my favorite Ultraviolet Tee to wear so I decided to update the pattern with a View C. View C extends the curved hem in front and back so you have a high-drama slit at the side but the shirt is full length at the front and back so there’s no risk of peek-a-boo belly like with the cropped version. This sample was sewn out of a double gauze given to me by Shannon Fabrics. I chose the print because I think the simple, oversized silhouette of the Ultraviolet Tee is …

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80’s Floral Blouse – Simplicity 5818

vintage 80s floral blouse - Simplicity 5818 - by Erin of Tuesday Stitches

Ready for some ruffled ridiculousness? floral fabulousness? eighties excitement? (awful alliteration?) Because I’ve got all of that in spades with this new blouse! Sidenote: Did you know that the phrase “in spades” is likely to have originated as a reference to the card suit thanks to the game of Bridge? I’ve been reading a hilarious memoir of a man who read the entire Encyclopedia Britannica (The Know It All: One Man’s Humble Quest to Become the Smartest Person in the World) and it’s littered with ridiculous trivia that he pulled from his reading which seems to have inspired me to pepper my own life with useless trivia. I recommend the book, regardless. When I found this blouse pattern at the thrift store I have literally no idea why it so captured my heart. Of all vintage fashion decades, the 80’s are probably my least favorite. I’m not a big fan …

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Camisole Dress Hack from the Tropo Camisole

I hadn’t even thought about hacking the Tropo Camisole into a dress until I got feedback from my Tropo Camisole pattern testers and discovered that Maria had made a couple different dresses while testing the pattern so of course I had to copy her idea because imitation is the highest form of flattery and I thought her idea was great! It’s pretty simple to turn the Tropo Camisole into a dress, but you do need to consider the width of your hips. This will be a fitted dress with negative ease through the hips (to be consistent with the negative ease in the upper part of the camisole) so you should end up with a hip measurement on your finished dress that is a few inches smaller than the width of your body. There can actually be a lot of variability in this number from one person’s “perfect fit” to …

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Floral Fumeterre Skirt

If you’ll allow me, for a moment, to pretend that time isn’t remotely linear (sidenote: if you’ve never read Einstein’s Dreams I highly recommend it for a fascinating exploration of different ways that time could be and what that would mean for humanity), then I’ll share this white cotton floral skirt that I actually sewed last fall (after sewing my clearly-meant-for-fall Afghan Nomad Dress) just as warm weather fizzled out and it wasn’t really appropriate to wear white cotton. Now that weather is warming up, I’m definitely enjoying wearing it as I adore floral prints and I adore maxi skirts. It took me several photoshoots to end up with photos that I feel “meh” about, which is better than the “ugh” that I started with. But it does leave me wondering if this skirt is better in theory than it is in practice? It’s a fumeterre by Deer & Doe and …

Tropo Camisole with Stretch Lace Straps

Tropo Camisole by Tuesday Stitches. Camisole sewing pattern.

I think I had even more fun coming up with hacks for the Tropo Camisole that I did for the pattern itself. And this might be my favorite hack! Replacing the fold-over-elastic with stretch lace is easy to do but it really glams up the camisole. (For another alternative to FOE, see our Tropo Camisole with ribbing hack). This example uses stretch lace that is 1″ wide and shows the full width across front and back but uses 1/2 width across the straps. You can use narrower or wider lace but do make sure that it is stretch lace as it will need to be able to stretch with the knit camisole on your body. If desired, start by finishing the neckline on the front and back of your camisole. I opted to serge the top of this fabric for a clean edge as I wanted it to look visually finished, …

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70’s Leopard Print Wrap Dress – Vintage Vogue 7705

Vintage Vogue 7705 - 1970's leopard print wrap dress. Sewn by Erin of Tuesday Stitches.

I like to sew a new dress every year to wear for winter events. This year I got this dress done just in the knick of time to wear to a secret surprise date night I planned for Adam in December. We dropped Biscuit off with her grandparents, got a hotel room in the city for the night so we wouldn’t have to rush to catch a ferry home, went out to a fancy dinner, and went to see Elf: The Musical. For the years that Adam and I were dating, my mom would always let him pick the Christmas movie that we would watch as a family when we were home for the holidays. Every year he picks Elf. So it has kind of become a running joke between us and it seemed the perfect, silly, fun thing to surprise him with. I did make a quick muslin of …

How to Sew Wide Swimsuit Straps

Our Laminaria Swimsuit was designed with spaghetti straps. One of the questions we get, particularly from those with larger busts looking for more support, is if it is possible to sew the Laminaria Swimsuit with wide straps. Yes! Below, we describe 3 different ways to sew wide swimsuit straps that can be substituted on the Laminaria Swimsuit or any other swimsuit with narrow straps that you want to increase the width. The 3 different methods are from fabric, from fabric covered elastic, and from decorative elastic. (Shown above is our Laminaria Swimsuit with contrast covered edges, wide decorative elastic straps (described below), hidden elastic join (tutorial coming soon), and raised leg (tutorial coming soon)). Fabric Straps: A simple way to increase the width of your straps is to sew fabric tubes. Cut four strips of fabric your desired length and 1/2″ wider than your desired width. Sew the fabric right …

All About Fold-Over-Elastic (FOE) and How to Sew It

In developing our Tropo Camisole pattern it feels like we’ve sewn enough fold-over elastic (FOE) to reach to the moon and back! We’ve assembled here everything we’ve learned about FOE along the way to help you get started with sewing your own FOE! What is FOE? FOE stands for Fold-Over-Elastic. It is a lightweight elastic that has a crease down the middle of it. It often has one shiny side (usually considered the right side) and one matte side (usually considered the wrong side) and can be found in a variety of colors and a variety of patterns. The crease allows you to fold the elastic perfectly in half. FOE can be found in a variety of qualities and you may find some are soft while some are scratchy (particularly metallic colors). Some FOEs have better recovery than others (recovery is how well it springs back after you stretch it). …

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Toddler Electron Layette

The question that I get the most about my Electron Layette pattern is “can a toddler climb around in it?” People are worried that a toddler’s movement might be restricted by the drop crotch of the pant and Evelyn is here to show you conclusively that she’s able to be as much of a climbing-jumping-running-flopping maniac in these pants as any others! Of course I didn’t manage to get any great action shots since she’s always moving too fast! (Though I did just buy a new lens for my camera so indoor action shots should be easier from here on out). So hopefully you’ll believe me :) This set is sewn in size 2 yrs though Evelyn is somewhere between 18 months and 2 yrs in sizing so she has a bit of room to grow. She’s no longer interested in wearing the hat that is a part of the …

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Plaid Flannel Pajama Set – Vintage Butterick 5744 and Simplicity 6664

Every year on Christmas Eve I would get to open one present before going to bed. Somehow it took me something like 15 years to figure out that that one present was always new pajamas. I want to keep the tradition going for my own daughter (and time will tell if she’s quicker on the uptake than I am). Last year (her first Christmas) I bought pajamas for the family but this year I felt like I had the time and bandwidth to make them. I don’t want to give myself pressure to make them every year, but, instead, celebrate the years I do get to make them. My friend Marissa recently brought me a stack of fabric that she had inherited – she picked out everything loud and/or pink to give to me (she knows me well). I’ve been wanting some pajamas for myself that are cozy but still …

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All About Bias Tape (and How to Make Your Own)

It’s true that it’s generally easier to just buy a package of pre-made bias tape, but we don’t sew our own clothes because it’s easy, do we? I like to make my own bias tape most of the time because I can get a perfect color match and I can match the weight, hand, and fiber content of the main fabric. Pre-packaged bias tape is generally a cotton-poly blend and is pretty stiff. That might be just fine if you’re putting a Hong Kong finish on the seams of a denim jacket, but if you have a cotton voile or a silk crepe de chine blouse, it’s going to add a stiffness that you won’t want. What is bias tape? Bias tape is simply a strip of fabric that is cut on a 45 degree angle (for a “true bias” because it has the most mechanical stretch). If you’re used …

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Black Velvet Babydoll Top

There comes a time in every person’s life when the fashions of their youth are on trend again. Folks, that time for me is now. The thing about revisiting fashions from the past is that I’m now old enough and self-confident enough that I can put my own spin them. I can take the elements I remember fondly, mix them up with other things that speak to me now, and rock a version that is totally uniquely me. Growing up in Seattle, the 90’s were all about grunge. This black velvet babydoll (self-drafted off my tee shirt block) and black leather boots are a little bit 90’s Courtney Love (and so is my hair right now) as I was always drawn to the femme side of grunge (other than 7th grade in which I wore a lot of dumpy jeans, t-shirts, and oversized button front shirts). Styled with cheery geometric-print …

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Purple Ruby Joggers

Even though it’s highly tempting, since I work from my office in the basement of our house, I don’t actually spend every day in sweatpants. However, I do pretty much always end up in sweatpants at some point every day, whether it’s first thing in the morning when I pull something cozy on while I get Buglet up and get my morning tea or at the end of the day when I curl up on the couch to watch some TV with my partner. That being said, it’s kinda nice to have more than one pair of sweatpants. I sewed up a pair of Paprika Patterns Ruby Joggers. If you don’t already have a favorite jogger pattern (or if you’re willing to cheat on your favorite), the Ruby Joggers are worth checking out. I know they’re a bit late to the jogger game (like me), but they’re unique from other …

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Floral Scuba Trapeze Dress

It’s probably a good thing that I don’t go into a daily office job right now because then there would be people (other than my husband) to notice that I’m wearing this dress a lot this winter. Like, a lot a lot. It’s comfortable as all get-out, it’s warm, it’s my exact winter palette, it works great with leggings (I’m working on a leggings pattern and I’ve gotta make sure the samples are comfortable to wear!), and did I mention how comfortable it is? I drafted the pattern myself off of my t-shirt block (all it takes is a few vertical slits from hem to bust that are spread evenly) but the Closet Case Patterns Ebony is obviously pretty similar if you don’t want to do any drafting yourself. I wanted to have a swoopy hem with some interesting shape to it, but the underside of the scuba is white …

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Evelyn’s Winter Playsuit (Ottobre 7. Marsupial Autumn 4/2017)

Last year (Evie’s first winter) we had this great quilted suit for her that we bundled her up in every time we went outside (which was at least a couple times a day for our regular walks). I wanted to repeat the idea this winter but it needed to have more mobility since she’s no longer a cute little blob that sits patiently in our arms or stroller or carrying pack (that is admittedly a bit of a revisionist history as she’s never been patient), she’s a full blown toddler, still very cute but o.m.g. all over the place. When it started to turn to fall I started sewing a small stack of fall/winter clothes for Evie. I picked out “7. Marsupial” from Ottobre Autumn 4/2017 and went up a size since it was meant to be a sweatsuit and I knew she’d need some more ease to fit over …

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Picture Books to Give to Kids of Sewing Lovers

It’s no secret that I’m sewing obsessed and probably no surprise that I’d love for my daughter to grow up the same. I also love to read and am so excited that my biscuit loves our reading time too (in her own little reading corner in her own little room). I’ve started collecting picture books for her that have to do with sewing to combine the two loves. One awesome thing about picture books is that they entertain kids for many, many years – from being read to to reading themselves. Maybe you have a munchkin of your own and want ideas for books to get from the library or maybe you’re looking for gift ideas for the kiddos of your friends and family. These are all books about sewing that I’ve found and would recommend! (Want even more ideas for kids of textile lovers? Check out my list of …

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Fall/Winter Sewing Plans

It’s hard for me to plan out too much of what I’m going to sew as I’m often distracted by shiny objects. And there’s always way more ideas (and fabric and patterns) than time. But I thought that perhaps this year I would assemble a short list of things I would like to sew and wear this fall/winter so that I can retain a bit of focus and flesh out some gaps, knowing that I’ll interject shiny objects in between. High on the list is another pair of jeans. I’m finding I much prefer to wear mid to high waist pants in my post-baby body rather than the low-rise I preferred before which leaves me a grand total of 1 pair of jeans in my closet that I like. I have quite a collection of 70’s jeans patterns which all have the rise I’m looking for but these seemed like …

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Katie’s Vintage Inspired Wedding Dress

This summer I had the pleasure of making Katie’s wedding dress. I don’t do a lot of custom sewing these days and I generally avoid wedding dresses because drama, stress, and drama. But I made an exception for Katie and I’m so very glad I did. My step-mom is friends with Katie’s mom. My step-mom told me that the daughter of a friend was a lovely, laid-back woman who was planning a small garden wedding and wanted to use part of her grandmother’s wedding dress to elevate a ready-to-wear dress she had already purchased. She wanted a dress that had a bit of vintage flair that would flatter her tall frame. How could I say no? We were working on a pretty short timescale (less than 2 months!) so I didn’t have time to construct a whole dress. Fortunately, Katie had found a ready-to-wear dress that fit her. It was …

Pink & Black Sporty Watson Bra

You know what I find really interesting? My current desire to wear unstructured bras. Before pregnancy I mostly wore foam-cup bras that helped to give the illusion of curves to my torso, to balance and soften my otherwise angular and hippy body. While pregnant and shortly after I only wore soft cup bralettes since my boobs were huge (to me) and my body was so covered in curve that no extra curve was necessary. But now that I’m back down in cup and body size I’m no longer as interested in the foam cups I once felt necessary. I’m more drawn to soft cup bras. I don’t really know how to unpack this new desire. Is it because my post-baby body is softer even at the same weight as before so I don’t need to add more softness? Is it because I’m more comfortable in my own body than ever …