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The Wedding Jacket Chronicle Part 3: Fitting Revelation (or Muslin Fitting 2)

I recently spent another afternoon getting Sunnygal Studio‘s help on fitting my jacket muslin and our final product was a revelation. It changed my entire relationship with sleeve caps and my shoulders. The earth moved, the stars aligned, and *BAM* I finally understood how to get a fitted garment well-fitted through my shoulders. I have always struggled to get garments nicely fitted through my shoulders (my fitting challenge is that I have a narrow ribcage but prominent shoulders) – either they dig into my underarm or I can’t lift my arms or I’m drowning in fabric to compensate. I’ve made all sorts of non-standard changes in all sorts of places in the sleeve, sleeve cap, and armscye and all to no avail. And now, I know EXACTLY what to do to EVERY SINGLE fitted garment that I sew with sleeves for the rest of my life. AMEN! The changes that I had …

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Hand Embroidered Rigel Bomber Jacket

I dreamt of a peacock. Floating feathers, cascading flowers. Striking stitching on a simple jacket making it unique and wonderful and one-of-a-kind. (I already detailed the process of the embroidery, if you’re interested.) I love that the Rigel Bomber jacket is fairly simple, making it wearable with so many outfits, day after day. But my stitching makes it completely unique at the same time. I’m a jacket junkie and this is pure manna for my addiction. The outer wool is from a vintage pashmina. I bought the pashmina along with a stash of vintage fabric from a flea market in Guerneville, CA (mostly 70’s fabrics, including the fabric I used for the bodice of my Thanksgiving dress). I pulled it from my stash for this project because I knew it would be a dream to embroider on because of the relatively loose weave. I bought the ribbing and perfectly matching zipper from Britex and the …

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Embroidering My Bomber Jacket

Ideas, stemming from unknown places, out of my control, seem to be taking over my head. My last project, a jacket and backpack, came from a fabric obsession that took over my waking and sleeping thoughts. This project grew from a desire, nay, a need to embroider a piece of clothing.  I have plenty of handwork projects going right now – several shawls I’m knitting for my wedding, a needlepoint organ that’s languishing on the shelf – but a burning need create my own textile through embroidery arose from the creative miasma and demanded attention.   I first thought that I would embroider a floral motif, western shirt style, to the back yoke of a jacket. I went poking through a Flickr group of vintage embroidery patterns and found several ideas (and pinned a few of them). I decided on a jacket pattern, decided on a lovely length of wool from …

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Graphic Neutral Jacket and Cooper Backpack

I grew obsessed with this fabric. I didn’t order it in my first 3 months of blogging for Minerva and it haunted me. I’d wake up in the middle of the night and look for it in their store, making sure that it was still there. I’d have dreams where the black squiggles squiggled their way across any blank surface, with rows of humble x-es x-ing their path above. I thought in stripes, I yearned for layers of neutrals. And this obsession confused me and scared me. It wasn’t scary to be obsessed with a piece of fabric. That’s happened plenty of times. What was haunting was that it was such a neutral print. No trace of pink and certainly no fuchsia. No gigantic floral print. What was going on in my head that I could be posses by something so unprepossessing? But I succumbed, and I’m so very happy …

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Fall for Cotton Jacket Top

For the Fall for Cotton Sewalong I’ve sewn all four pieces from my mom’s 1976 McCalls pattern. I’m sharing them piece by piece with modern styling (how I’ll actually wear them) before the big reveal of a full-on 1976 photoshoot. This is piece 3 of 4. I’m am so happy right now I’m riding on a cloud. I’ve been jumping up and down around my apartment (terrifying my cats, of course). I’m gushing happiness to anyone that will listen to me. I’m inspired and silly and giddy and excited. I feel like me again in a way that I haven’t felt in years (thank you, graduate school). Of course my emotional high was kicked off by a phenomenal time at Sewing Summit. But every day this week since I’ve been back I’ve gotten a piece of good news towards my dream of being a Seamstress (with a capital S). I …

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White Linen Cropped Victoria Blazer

At first I wasn’t terribly sold on the Victoria blazer by By Hand London. It just felt a little too late 80’s – early 90’s to suit my style, and I’m not usually a fan of boxy clothing on my torso. However, I’ve been swayed by many cute versions popping up on the blogosphere, so when I ordered the Anna dress pattern (stay tuned for a couple versions of it coming up!), I figured I would save on shipping and added the Victoria to my shopping cart. I’m so glad I did! I made up the Victoria in off-white linen, fully lined in the same fabric. (Like many, I opted to add a lining to the sleeves). I actually intended to line it with a fun blue batik print, but I didn’t want there to be any chance of the blue bleeding onto the white linen in future washes, so I …