How to Add a Pocket to the Side of Leggings

Adding a pocket onto the side of a pair of leggings is a great way to make them more functional. Stick your house key, a cell phone, and some cash in and you’re good to go whether it’s for a jog or for a night out on the town. The Citrus Leggings are a great pattern for adding in an extra pocket because they have a side panel. You can extend your pocket sides into the side panel seams making them extra sturdy. Rather than making a pattern piece, you can cut a rectangle the height you want your finished pocket to be + 1/2″ for seam allowances and wider than the width of View C side where you will be placing the pockets (since you can trim it down after basting it in place). If you’re making Views A or B, you’ll want to sew your Side Front to …

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How to Sew Hidden Wide Waistband Elastic

Wide Elastic Waisted Citrus Leggings by Tuesday Stitches

In this tutorial, we’ll walk you through how to sew wide waistband elastic (or plush waistband elastic) in the inside of a garment waist instead of a casing. We’ve put this tutorial together as a fun hack for the Citrus Leggings, but you can apply it to just about any skirt or pants that uses an elastic waistband. No need to use an elastic the same width as your pattern since we don’t use a casing. Start by cutting a piece of wide waistband elastic to length. Abut the ends and use a wide zig-zag to sew them together. (I used a contrasting thread so you could see what I was doing, but you’ll probably want to use a matching thread as this stitching is visible in the finished garment). This elastic is 2″ wide. You can use anything in the 1-2″ range for this treatment. “Plush back” elastics are …

How to Sew a Wide Waistband on Any Leggings

wide waistband onto citrus leggings by Tuesday Stitches

Pull up some tracing paper and a pen because we’re going to do a little bit of pattern drafting! In this tutorial I’ll show you how to turn any leggings pattern into one with a wide waistband. I’ll be using our Citrus Leggings pattern as an example, but this will work for just about any leggings pattern you have. I’ll also explain THREE different ways to sew the waistband – with hidden elastic, with an elastic channel, and without elastic. 1. Sew and trace Front & Back. Start by sewing the Front and Back separately. We’re sewing and then measuring off of the garment instead of doing all our shaping on the pattern because it means a lot less cutting and pasting and worrying about seam allowances if you have multiples seams in your leggings. (You can use the same principles to work directly from your pattern pieces if you’d rather, …

Sewing the Side Seams of the Citrus Leggings

Sewing the side seams of View A and View B can seem a bit tricky because of the weird pattern piece shapes, but no need to fear! It’s not actually hard to sew them. Here are some photos and extra information to help you through the process. View A: When you sew the Side Front and Side Back together, the pieces will be curved around (even if you sew them to the Front/Back as pictured above (this is a different construction order than suggested in the instructions because I was doing a pattern hack that I’ll show off next week. If you’re following the instructions you’ll just have Side Front & Side Back at this point. It doesn’t make it any different)). If you were to finish the leggings and wear them without adding any elastic to the side they would actually wear just fine. We add in the elastic to …

Fabric Selection for the Citrus Leggings

Erin in Citrus Leggings by Tuesday Stitches - View A

The Citrus Leggings are designed for a stretch knit with 40% horizontal stretch and some vertical stretch. That means that a piece of fabric that is 5″ wide will easily stretch from side to side until it is 7″ wide and when you pull it from top to bottom it will have a little stretch as well. Vertical stretch isn’t strictly necessary, but it does make it more comfortable to have the leggings snug through the crotch since it gives them a bit of movement. Here are a few suggestions of different fabrics that fit this category and what to consider when sewing with them. Stretch velvets are an on-trend fabric right now that work really well. You do need to pay attention to nap when cutting, though the cutting diagrams are laid out assuming your fabric has directionality so you can just follow the cutting diagram. You’ll find that …

Size Selection and Fit for the Citrus Leggings

For the Citrus Leggings, we recommend that you select your size based on your hip measurement and make any necessary changes from there. Every person’s body is unique and every person has different fit preferences and these are all affected by the particular fabric you use. Additionally, these leggings are quite forgiving in fit because they are sewn from 40% stretch fabric with a reasonable amount of negative ease so you may comfortably fit into a range of sizes or you may not feel you need adjustments despite having measurements that differ from our size chart. That being said, we have some general recommendations for getting the best fit out of your Citrus Leggings. You’re always welcome to get in touch with specific questions about your own personal fit! NOTE: Rather than just tracing between sizes, you’ll need to use a bit of common sense when grading these pattern pieces …

Citrus Leggings Pattern Testers

Wendy in Citrus Leggings by Tuesday Stitches

The Citrus Leggings were a looooong time in the making (more on that in their introductory post) so I had a LOT of pattern testers. This is just a sampling of the many awesome folks who helped me along the way. I’m appreciative of the help I received from every single tester and I hope you’ll enjoy seeing a sampling of the fun leggings and reading some thoughts about the pattern. If you look closely you’ll see a mix of View A (gathers along the side), View B (gathers along the front/back), and View C (plain side). A number of testers got creative with color blocking. Make sure you look for the leggings made with a striped fabric to see the very cool effect you get on the side of the leg! (Click here to read more about pattern testing for Tuesday stitches and sign up to be notified of …

Introducing the Citrus Leggings!

Barbara in Citrus Leggings View B by Tuesday Stitches

I am so gosh darn golly gee excited to finally be able to introduce you to the Citrus Leggings! The Citrus Leggings are a high-waisted, fitted leggings pattern meant for everyday wear under tunics or dresses (but we won’t tell if you wear them as pants). They can also be sewn out of exercise material for a workout pant with personality. Citrus Leggings are available with a plain side panel (View C) or a side panel with unique gathers that can be placed along either the side seam with a smooth Front/Back (View A) or along the Front/Back with a smooth side seam (View B). The pattern includes 3 separate inseams (26” (66 cm), 29” ( 74 cm) or 32” (81 cm)) for an ankle length pant on short, average, or tall women and comes in our standard size range of 0-26 (hip 35″-55″). They can be sewn in any …