Sparkly Underlined Sewaholic Robson Trench

Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat

I’m a bit of a coat junkie, but I rarely actually follow through on my coat cravings because I commute by scooter, so every day I wear my motorcycle jacket. When I saw the Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat pattern, there was no question, I had to buy it and make myself a trench coat. And I happened to have the all the needed fabric, underlining, and bias tape in my stash!

Popping Trench Coat Collar

I don’t know anything about this fabric other than I bought it on sale quite a while ago, it’s a navy blue of something synthetic that sloughs water, and it has silver paint dots all over it. It has almost no drape which gives great structure for the collar. However, it wasn’t easy to work with the painted fabric. I put together a post of hints for working with heavily embellished fabrics based on my experiences with this fabric.

removing volume from seams

Because the blue fabric doesn’t drape, I ended up taking out many inches at the bottom of the coat, divided across a few seams. Instead of a nicely draping skirt (as intended), my stiff fabric gave a giant garbage-bag looking puff. Unfortunately, I discovered this after having bound the seams, sewn the seams together, and topstitched both sides down. So, a lot of seam ripping went into getting this coat to be the best shape for the fabric. But, it was totally worth it.

Blue and Silver Sparkles Trench Coat

I didn’t get the fit perfect on this coat, unfortunately. The bust waist and hips were spot on as I am a pear shape, but I didn’t account for my strong shoulders. It looks beautiful if I stand perfectly still, but if I move around, you can see that it pulls across my shoulders a bit. Oops. It’s totally wearable but not totally perfect, which is a bummer for how much time and energy I put into this coat. The fact that the fabric doesn’t drape at all doesn’t help to hid the fit flaw.

Red White and Blue Trench Coat Lining

My favorite feature about this coat is the ability to add a crazy underlining. You may think the jacket is all staid and conservative from the outside (well, aside from the silver polka-dots), but it’s got crazy bright colors going on inside! I had this mid-weight synthetic chinese brocade in my stash from the Punjabi market years and years ago. I slightly modified the construction instructions so that I could have the underlining show off to the best of its advantage and install in the easiest way possible. I’ll have a post tomorrow detailing what I did. All of the bias tape was also in my stash, thanks to a recent acquisition from my grandmother. The many yards of bias tape were surprisingly easy and quick to install using my bias binding foot.

Navy Blue Trench Coat Rear Back

I really wanted to take pictures on the top of Diamond Heights with the beautiful SF city view behind me. But the wind picked up and made it uncomfortable, so we went further down the hill instead. The trench did turn out to be the perfect weight for keeping me comfortable in the wind, so it’s already proved itself in action!

Navy Trench Coat in Wind

If this coat inspires you to make your own similar version, I have some tutorials to help!
Learn how to use a bias binding foot.
Learn how to work with heavily embellished fabric.
Learn how to underline the Sewaholic Robson coat.

Comments 9

  1. I love seeing people’s versions of this pattern. No two are alike. And, none look like your every day trench. I’m glad you made the fabric work as it’s pretty awesome. Definitely a one-of-a-kind coat!

  2. You’re a wonder to behold! And you inspire me…NOW to make good on my intentions.

  3. How could I not like anything with sparkle….but that underlining is beautiful. Such neat finishing. i am a little concerned you are going to feel the need to flash people the inside of your coat all the time and may get arrested ;)

  4. It looks so great! The fun lining is like a secret smile on the inside.
    I have a stash of inherited sewing supplies, too – I’d never used bias tape or seam binding until I became the owner of my great-grandma’s. I feel like I’m connecting with her every time I use it.
    Did you make your dress?

    1. Post

      I did make the skirt. You can find a blog post about it here. The top is just a t-shirt and was a hand-me-down from my mom.

  5. Hi Erin, I´m actually fallen in a start of Trenchcoat fever, looking for a nice pattern for me. I like the details of the Robson Trench, but as I read-meade for pear forms it could be also not the perfect pattern for me with my strong shoulders… :( What a pitty. But unless-yours is great with that dotties and the crazy lining! Nicole

    1. Post

      Mine ended up a bit snug in the shoulders since I too have strong shoulders. You might have good luck choosing the size based on your shoulders and grading down the hips. Or buy a more standard sized trench coat pattern since there are many others out there.

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