I’ve seen many sewing bloggers write that they intend to tackle trousers this year. Might I make a suggestion? Treat yourself to a Craftsy class by Sandra Betzina on Pant Construction Techniques. (If you’re not an expert on fitting pants, you might want to try her class on Pant Fitting first). The class is a wealth of information helpful for any pair of pants you might want to construct in the future, certainly not limited to the pattern that they send you with class registration. In fact, I sewed a pair of trousers while watching the class and found her construction techniques to be very helpful.
Every section of the class contained new information for me, or at least good reminders of things I probably already know (but may tend to forget). The class is pretty comprehensive, containing sections on pockets, invisible zippers, fly front zippers, linings, hem treatments, and more! Again, there is no need to use the pants pattern included with the class if you don’t fancy it; the techniques encompass just about any pant out there.
A few things that I learned that really stood out to me:
– When sewing, the stiffer fabric should always be on top.
– Put stay tape in the seamline of the waistband to prevent it stretching out as you wear it.
– For waistbands, cut the interfacing with the grainline the opposite direction of the fabric to prevent stretching.
– When pressing a front trouser pocket, press it onto a ham to account for body curvature.
Sandra Betzina is a hoot to watch teach. She has so much to say and so much personality. It sometimes feels like she is rambling but even her tangents contain valuable information, and she always get back around to explaining (and explaining well) her point.
The great thing about Craftsy classes is that you can watch (and rewatch) them at your leisure, come back to them any time, and watch them as many times as you want. If you haven’t taken a Craftsy class I totally recommend checking out their classroom setup and getting familiar with their interface. I’ve been pretty impressed so far.
My only disappointment with the class was that Sandra didn’t cover how to line a pair of fly-front trousers, however, I understand that it’s not possible to cover every possible technique. I believe I managed to get mine lined just fine.
Full disclosure: Craftsy gave me this class free in return for my honest review. All opinions are my own. Even better, they gave me a coupon to share with you so you can take the class 1/2 off! The coupon should work for other classes as well, but may not be the same discount on all classes.