This bra isn’t that exciting. It’s Kwik Sew K3594 that I converted into a nursing bra. As much as I want to sew only exciting things, apparently practical still wins out occasionally. This bra was meant to be a wearable muslin – I do have pretty fabrics and lace that I want to sew into a bra, but I’m not totally sure what size I should be wearing right now as my bust size has changed yet again since I have been slowly losing weight post baby. Since it’s pretty near impossible to figure out if a bra fits until it’s almost all sewn, I figured I’d start simple and then when I figure out the fit go ahead and use my pretties.
I haven’t quite gotten the fit right with this bra. You can see there’s a bit of extra fabric in the bottom of the cup. The one fit modification I made was to bring the cups closer together at center front by narrowing the center front gore by just increasing the center front seam allowance. I think I’m next going to try going down a cup size (though this is wearable so I may wait a while because I may very well change size again before I need another bra), but I’m very happy to hear suggestions from anyone who knows more than me about bra fitting!
I turned this into a nursing bra by simply adding nursing clips that I cannibalized from a RTW nursing bra that I bought right before Evie was born that I have both shrunk out of and worn out. The clips are meant for elastic a bit wider than what I had lying around, but they’re good enough. Instead of sewing a partial cup to keep the bra in place when unclipped (like I did last time), I just used a strip of elastic since I had just enough left.
I think the back size is fine. I used two layers of nylon for the cups and band though the pattern only called for one layer for the band with a layer of power mesh. I only had white power mesh on hand and knew that would drive me crazy so I figured I’d experiment with double nylon instead. I’ll use the power mesh next time as the stretch is definitely compromised by the two layers of fabric. Perhaps I could even go down another band size if I had a stretchier band and then I might not need to go down a cup size?
I sewed all the elastic on facing the wrong direction (plush side in) since there wasn’t much difference between the sides and I though it looked prettier to show off the cute stripe on the inside. I lined this bra in the same manner as when I sewed my Watson bras which worked really well on those bras but kind of left me a bit of a mess at the center front inside of this bra that is conveniently cropped out of my photo since the center front shaping is so different between bras).
The bra is certainly good enough that I can wear it. Part of me wants to keep making bras until I have beautiful ones that fit perfectly. But I also figure my bust is going to keep changing and, while I would learn a lot from perfecting fit right now, I think I’d rather wait until my body is more static (so probably post-weaning) so that I can use my sewing time to make other things I really want to be wearing.