Have I mentioned yet that I’m in love with my Mad Men Joan dress? So much so that I wrote a tutorial for drafting sleeve flounces so I can spread the love. The only problem with inserting these pretty arm flounces onto a dress sleeve is that when the flounce flops around, as it looks so beautiful doing, you are liable to catch a big ol’ glimpse of the seam where you sewed the flounce onto the sleeve, and that’s not as beautiful. So, sleeve facings to the rescue!
The idea here is pretty similar to the idea of a neck facing, with which you’re probably quite familiar – a piece of lining fabric that is an exact mirror of a little bit of the main fabric. What you need to do is to trace the bottom several inches of your sleeve pattern and cut it out of your facing fabric. (I would mark what is the cuff edge of the sleeve piece as you cut as it’s easy to get it flipped vertically.) Sew the pieces along the seam lines, right sides together, as you would for the full-length sleeve, and finish the seam (if you’re into that sort of thing).
Now make a clean finish for the top of the facing piece. I serged the edge and then folded it over into a narrow seam. I also serged the bottom edge of the facing but it will be hidden when complete so this isn’t strictly necessary.
Sew the facing onto the sleeve with flounce, right side of facing against underside of flounce. (I recommend sewing the flounce on and then sewing the facing on instead of trying to do them together as it can be a bit much to handle both at the same time.) Turn the facing to the inside and press.
Make sure that you select a lightweight facing fabric (lighter than your main fabric) and it shouldn’t be visible once it’s in place.