As part of Sewing Indie Month, I’m delighted to share a tutorial from Mari of Seamster Sewing Patterns. What’s better than a pocket? Moar pockets! In this tutorial, Mari will teach you how to add in seam pockets to the Conifer Skirt to compliment the pocket already hidden in the waistband.
Hello SeamstressErin readers! My name is Mari from Seamster Sewing Patterns and Sew Independent. I’m excited to bring you a tutorial on sewing stable inseam pockets for Sewing Indie Month. Like many sewers, I love me some pockets. I also love wearing knits. You know what this can lead to, saggy pockets that gape open in an incredibly unattractive way as they bulge out on the sides of your hips. But there is hope! And the secret may very well lie in your stash.
For today’s tutorial I’m using Erin’s Conifer Skirt, although you can use the same techniques for any inseam pockets. I do it every time I make one of my Honeydew Skirts.
Before we get started though, you’ll need an inseam pocket pattern piece if your skirt pattern doesn’t have one. Since the Conifer has a hidden waistband pocket instead of inseam pockets, I’ve drafted an inseam pocket for you to use. Download the inseam Conifer Skirt Pocket here. Cut two pieces on the fold.
You’ll also need 34” of a stable trim such as ribbon, twill tape, or lace. I like to use trims that are between 3/8” – 3/4” wide. It cannot have any spandex in it; the only stretch the trim may have is some slight mechanical stretch. If you don’t happen to have a stash of trims due to a magpie-like affinity for them as I have, you can also use the selvedge of a stable woven fabric, although you may wish to sew it to the wrong sides of the pocket bag openings.
Now onto the sewing!
Right sides together, sew your pocket bags to the front and back skirt pieces. The pocket pattern fits in the upper corners of the skirt pieces, along the waist and side seams. Stitch along the side seams, starting from the bottom of the pocket bags and stopping at the notch on the pocket bags. You’ll do this four times as you sew the two pocket pieces to both sides seams of the front and back skirt pieces. Each pocket piece will be attached to a skirt front and a skirt back.
At the notch, clip up to but not through the seam allowances of both the pocket and skirt pieces. Iron the pocket bags away from the skirt pattern pieces. Below the notch, the seam allowances should be ironed towards the pockets.
Cut your trim into four evenly sized pieces. Stitch each piece to the pocket bag openings from the top of the pocket bag to the bottom of the pocket opening. The wrong side of the trim should be touching the right side of the pocket bags. An edge stitching foot will make the job easier as you stitch along both long edges of the trim. If your trim extends beyond the seam allowance (which will be on the wrong side of the fabric so not visible), you may wish to stitch along the center of the trim to further stabilize the opening.
Right sides together, stitch the side seams above the clipped notches. The skirt piece will be sewn together and then the pocket bag pieces will be sewn together. The skirt and pocket bag pieces should not be sewn to each other above the notch.
Right sides together, stitch the bottom of the pocket bags closed, pivoting once you reach the edge of the pocket bag opening to stitch the side seams. Optional: to reinforce your pocket, sew another line of stitching along the seam allowance of the bottom of the pocket bag, between the line of stitching you just sewed and the raw edge of the fabric.
Wrong side to wrong side, baste the pocket bags to the waist of the skirt front. Attach the waistband and finish the skirt per the pattern’s instructions.
So you can get an idea of how well this works, here’s a before and after picture of stuffing one of the pockets with my wallet, phone and keys. Because of the negative ease in the pattern you may wish to use a fabric with a higher stretch percentage if you’re inserting side seam pockets. As you can see on mine, the trim peeks out a little, although that’s also because I was between sizes and went with the smaller size.
For a little more pocket inspiration, here’s what they can look like when using jacquard ribbon. I wish you many happy inseam pockets!
Thanks for having me on your blog Erin!