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Aladdin Sane Shirt

Aladdin Sane vintage WilliWear shirt by Tuesday Stitches

Generally, my style philosophy is “go big or go home.” I designed this fabric with that philosophy in mind but it has sat on my shelf for a few years as I never quite seem to figure out how to pair it with a pattern that does it justice. I had thought of a fitted shirtdress when I designed it but it turned out a little too large scale. And then, while digging through my men’s pattern collection while looking for something else entirely, I found McCall’s 9628 by Willi Smith for WilliWear from 1985. And a lightbulb went off. I find androgyny really sexy on other people, but it’s not a style that I’m very comfortable in myself, despite (or perhaps because of) having a body type that suits androgyny. I tried to style this shirt femme. I tried it with a little skirt. I tried it with a big …

Sewing the Bralette in the Tropo Camisole

The optional built-in bralette in the Tropo Camisole does make it a bit harder to sew the camisole, but I think it’s totally worth it. Personally, I wear my Tropos all the time and only wear them with bralettes because I don’t need a lot of bust support and I love the fact that I don’t have to worry about bra straps showing under the camisole. If you’d like to sew a bralette into your Tropo Camisole but want a little extra hand-holding, read on! You can sew the bralette out of a variety of fabrics. (See the Tropo Camisole Fabric post and the Tropo Camisole Bralette Fabric post for more info). This example is using a sport lycra. Depending on your bust size and shape, desired level of support, and the fabric you are using, you may wish to change the shape of the bralette. I shaved off about …

How to Sew the Straps on the Tropo Camisole

Sometimes it’s nice to have some extra hand-holding through a tricky sewing step, isn’t it? This blog post will walk you through how to to sew all of the versions of the straps on the Tropo Camisole with an emphasis on the V-strap version since it can be a little intimidating. My favorite version is the V-strap on both front and back since it’s super fun and a little bit sexy and, hopefully, if you were worried about it being too hard, this post will convince you that you can do it!. (And if it’s not you’re thing, that’s cool too. Read along for the other strap configurations too!). If you’re using a bralette, make sure that it’s done and basted to the camisole all along the top – neckline and underarm both. Finish the neckline of both the front and back of the Tropo Camisole with fold-over elastic. (Read all about …

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Tropo Camisole Bralette Fabric and Elastic Selection

For the bralette of the Tropo Camisole, you can use any fabric that you use for body, but you also have other options. In this post we’ll talk about the pros and cons of the various fabric options. Before delving into bralette fabric, read the post on selecting fabric for the Tropo Camisole. The choices you make for your bralette fabric will greatly depend on how much support and coverage you want. Fabric Options: The easiest choice for your bralette is to use the same fabric as the body of your camisole. Similar to when you’re choosing the main fabric, you’ll want to consider weight, stretch, and recovery. I’ve made the bralette for many of my Tropo Camisoles with interlock knit and I think it’s a great choice for me because it’s thick enough to offer some nipple coverage and it has recovery (I’ve found most all interlock knits to …

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Vintage Simplicity 9722 Toddler Jumper

When you ask my toddler to smile, this is what you get. I have no idea why she thinks this is smiling, but we’re just gonna run with it because, while it may not be smiling, it’s certainly cute. I also have no idea why she thinks a dryer ball makes a good photoshoot prop, but she insisted on it being included. So this is my toddler “smiling” while holding a dryer ball. #parentlife When I bought the notions for my railroad stripe overalls I bought the overall buckles in a couple different sizes. I went with the larger for my overalls and decided to use the smaller to make Evelyn this vintage Simplicity 9722 overall dress from 1980. It’s a pretty timeless pattern, other than the fact that I used glaringly 70’s ditsy floral twill that I found at the thrift store. #noregrets. (Okay, one regret – that it …

Size Selection and Grading for the Laminaria Swimsuit

Grading the Laminaria Swimsuit by Tuesday Stitches

Just like ready-to-wear clothes don’t fit most bodies straight off the shelf (that’s one of the reasons you sew, right!?), sewing patterns often won’t fit you perfectly without some adjustments as well. Here I’ll show you how to grade and make fit adjustments specifically for the Laminaria Swimsuit. Pop over and read “Choosing a Size for a Swimsuit Pattern” before delving further here. If you need to shorten or lengthen your Laminaria, read that tutorial here. All of these adjustments are shown for the plain view. You can use the same principles to adjust the view with the inset, carrying your adjustments across both the main and the contrast fabrics. Sewing a “muslin”: It may be kind of funny to call it a muslin since you most definitely can’t sew this pattern out of actual muslin, but it’s always a good principle to sew a draft of something before cutting …

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Baseball Outfit

I’m not sure why Evelyn likes my Baseball Staple Dress so much. Maybe because she knows her Nana and Baba like baseball a lot? Regardless of the reason, when I was sorting through my scrap bin to sew her some summer clothes, I knew that the last beloved bits of this silly fabric needed to be sewn up for her. I used vintage Simplicity 9238 from 1971 for the dress and bloomers. There wasn’t quite enough fabric to fit the flare of the dress pattern piece so I inset a contrast strip at the side. The bloomers are oddly long but they ride up her legs into one giant puff which may not look cute on an adult but frankly anything is cute on a 2-year-old so I’m not going to try and fix it. I did make one gaff when sewing the dress – somehow I lost the collar …

Fabric Choices for the Tropo Camisole

tropo camisole with sexy v straps by Tuesday Stitches

Like any sewing pattern, the Tropo Camisole can be made from a variety of fabrics. We recommend knits with 40% stretch, though you can use a slightly less/more stretchy fabric (though you may want to go up/down a size, more on that below). Jersey is the most obvious choice though you can also use interlock, thermal, ribbing, sport lycra, and others. Below, we share examples of Tropo Camisoles made in different fabrics so we can highlight the good and bad in the subtly different fabrics (and so you can see what they might look like). The things you’ll want to pay attention to: weight, drape, stretch, and recovery. Weight & Drape: This grey Tropo is made from the most lightweight of the fabrics we’ve used. It’s a jersey with some rayon content and 40% stretch. I love this one as a base layer for layering (it was my go-to all …

Introducing Maternity Patterns and MaternitySewing.com!

MaternitySewing.com

If you’ve ever noticed things being a little quiet here behind the scenes in the last year, chances are it was because I was working on Maternity Sewing. I’m pretty darn stoked to say that our launch date is finally here and I don’t have to be quiet any more. Hooray! MaternitySewing.com is your source for maternity, nursing, and postpartum friendly sewing patterns. More than just being a curated sewing pattern shop, we want to be a community resource so we have plans for blog content and a podcast featuring maternity/nursing/postpartum sewing tutorials and inspiration and body positivity through all of the changes your body undergoes. We want to be a part of a community of women who have “been there” or are “there” right now to provide you both sewing and emotional support through what’s likely to be the biggest changes your body and your life will undergo. Even …

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How to Hide the Join of Wide Elastic Straps on a Swimsuit

How to Hide the Join of Wide Elastic Straps on a Swimsuit

One of the easiest ways to make a swimsuit more supportive for larger busts is to sew wider straps. It’s also a cute way to make your suit sportier, regardless of your need for support. Check out our tutorial here for a couple different ways to sew wider straps. In this example I used a wide plush-back waistband elastic for my straps which is lots of fun, but the join between elastic and swimsuit isn’t as pretty as with a narrower strap so I wanted a creative way to cover the join. The Laminaria Swimsuit normally uses a small facing to neatly join the narrow strap to the top of the front, but that same technique doesn’t work well with the wide elastic. It looks okay, but I wanted to figure out a simple way to make the join look even better than okay. Cut a little rectangle of fabric …

Ribbon Wrap Shawl

ribbon wrap shawl knit by Tuesday Stitches

It’s friggin gorgeous here right now. There’s something simply amazing about Pacific Northwest summers. Sunshine and warmth (that’s not stupidly hot) and lush greenery everywhere thanks to the rain we get the rest of the year. And I’m not wishing it away. I swear. But if there were to be an unexpected middle-of-summer cold spell, I would wrap myself up in my new Ribbon Wrap shawl. Because it’s so fabulously me and I just finished knitting it and I don’t want to wait months to wear it! I like knitting that is complicated and takes a while so generally you’ll find me knitting myself lace or cabled or colorwork sweaters. But there are certainly exceptions to every rule and this shawl is one of them. I tried to knit a sweater. I had some gorgeous hand spun off-white wool that I bought in Australia picked out for it. And then …

Alternative Construction Order for the Tropo Camisole

The Tropo Camisole instructions are written so that you can sew them on a basic sewing machine without any extra fancy attachments. But what if you want to use a coverstitch machine and/or a binding attacher? No problem! You just have to change the order of construction a bit and we’ll talk you through how to do that. Why didn’t we include this method in the instructions? It has a number of drawbacks that you should note: this construction order is not compatible with the built-in bralette. This method also uses more fold-over elastic (FOE) than the normal method. You also can’t baste on your straps to make sure they’re the right length before sewing them on so you’ll have to rely on the suggested lengths in the pattern or sew a test camisole (using the same FOE as FOE stretchiness can vary) first. We’re not going to talk through …

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Mila Overalls in Railroad Stripe

Some people, when they have kids, dress their children to look like them. I’ve always kind of dressed myself like an overgrown toddler so instead, now that I have a kid, I get to dress myself to look like her. She’s had this adorable little pair of OshKosh B’Gosh railroad stripe overalls for quite a while. And now I have a pair of overalls to match! When my friend Kate at The Confident Stitch offered to send me some denim, all sorts of ideas ran through my head, but I just kept coming back to this beautiful Robert Kaufman reversible stretch denim. I kept thinking that to do it justice I needed to find a way to show off the fact that it is reversible, but you can see that I ended up going grown-up toddler instead. I used Tilly and the Buttons Mila dungaree pattern. I wanted the fitted …

Adding Adjustable Straps to Your Tropo Camisole

Though the beauty of making a garment for yourself is that you can make it to fit you exactly, there are certainly still reasons you may want to make a garment adjustable. The Tropo Camisole is designed to have straps of a set length, sewn from fold-over elastic (FOE), but whether you’re sewing for a friend who can’t try on the camisole, know that your body will be changing size (remember that the Tropo Camisole has a nursing option!), don’t want to have to worry about the elastic stretching out over time, or just like the lingerie-inspired look, adjustable straps are a great option! To change your Tropo Camisole straps into lingerie-inspired adjustable straps you will need more fold-over elastic (FOE), 2 rings, and 2 sliders. You want your rings and sliders to be sized so that the FOE fits nicely in them when it is folded in half. In …

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Ultraviolet Tee Pattern Now With View C!

The Ultraviolet Tee had plenty of options when it was published. A curved cropped hem or a straight un-cropped hem. A plain front or a darted or gathered front to accommodate a D-F (or larger) cup bust. Different cut lines for knit or woven fabric. But a quick pattern hack that I did on a shirt for myself quickly became my favorite Ultraviolet Tee to wear so I decided to update the pattern with a View C. View C extends the curved hem in front and back so you have a high-drama slit at the side but the shirt is full length at the front and back so there’s no risk of peek-a-boo belly like with the cropped version. This sample was sewn out of a double gauze given to me by Shannon Fabrics. I chose the print because I think the simple, oversized silhouette of the Ultraviolet Tee is …

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80’s Floral Blouse – Simplicity 5818

vintage 80s floral blouse - Simplicity 5818 - by Erin of Tuesday Stitches

Ready for some ruffled ridiculousness? floral fabulousness? eighties excitement? (awful alliteration?) Because I’ve got all of that in spades with this new blouse! Sidenote: Did you know that the phrase “in spades” is likely to have originated as a reference to the card suit thanks to the game of Bridge? I’ve been reading a hilarious memoir of a man who read the entire Encyclopedia Britannica (The Know It All: One Man’s Humble Quest to Become the Smartest Person in the World) and it’s littered with ridiculous trivia that he pulled from his reading which seems to have inspired me to pepper my own life with useless trivia. I recommend the book, regardless. When I found this blouse pattern at the thrift store I have literally no idea why it so captured my heart. Of all vintage fashion decades, the 80’s are probably my least favorite. I’m not a big fan …

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Camisole Dress Hack from the Tropo Camisole

I hadn’t even thought about hacking the Tropo Camisole into a dress until I got feedback from my Tropo Camisole pattern testers and discovered that Maria had made a couple different dresses while testing the pattern so of course I had to copy her idea because imitation is the highest form of flattery and I thought her idea was great! It’s pretty simple to turn the Tropo Camisole into a dress, but you do need to consider the width of your hips. This will be a fitted dress with negative ease through the hips (to be consistent with the negative ease in the upper part of the camisole) so you should end up with a hip measurement on your finished dress that is a few inches smaller than the width of your body. There can actually be a lot of variability in this number from one person’s “perfect fit” to …

Lowering the Front/Back of the Tropo Camisole

Tropo Camisole by Tuesday Stitches. Camisole sewing pattern.

The Tropo Camisole, as designed, comes up fairly high on the chest/back. It’s really easy to hack the pattern to lower it, whether you’re wanting it to be a little more va-va-voom, don’t want the neckline to peek out from underneath another top, or just want to experiment with style lines. For most garments when you shorten/lengthen them somewhere, you blend the seamline on either side of the adjustment line. We don’t be doing that with the Tropo Camisole because we don’t want to change how it fits in our upper chest. Remember that if you’re sewing a bralette in your camisole you will need to make the same adjustments to the bralette as well. When you’re sewing the fold-over elastic onto your altered neckline you may need to adjust the suggested FOE lengths as you have changed the length of the neckline. For the straight neckline: Measure down the …

Using Different FOE Sizes on the Tropo Camisole

FOE elastic comes in a variety of widths, most typically from 3/8″ to 1″. You can read all about FOE and how to sew it here. I wanted to show how FOE width affects the sewing, styling, and functionality of the Tropo Camisole. The sample Emily is wearing is 3/8″ FOE. Style: Narrow elastic gives the most delicate and “spaghetti strap” effect. If you are petite and want your camisole straps to be proportional or if you are want to minimize the visual impact of your straps then 3/8″ FOE is a good choice. Your stitching (especially a zig-zag stitch) is likely to be the most visible on a narrow elastic as it covers proportionately more of the elastic. Sewing: 3/8″ FOE is the fussiest to apply since you have the smallest amount of wiggle room when aligning the edge of your fabric to the center of the FOE. Function: …

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Floral Fumeterre Skirt

If you’ll allow me, for a moment, to pretend that time isn’t remotely linear (sidenote: if you’ve never read Einstein’s Dreams I highly recommend it for a fascinating exploration of different ways that time could be and what that would mean for humanity), then I’ll share this white cotton floral skirt that I actually sewed last fall (after sewing my clearly-meant-for-fall Afghan Nomad Dress) just as warm weather fizzled out and it wasn’t really appropriate to wear white cotton. Now that weather is warming up, I’m definitely enjoying wearing it as I adore floral prints and I adore maxi skirts. It took me several photoshoots to end up with photos that I feel “meh” about, which is better than the “ugh” that I started with. But it does leave me wondering if this skirt is better in theory than it is in practice? It’s a fumeterre by Deer & Doe and …

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Tropo Camisole Hack: Ruche Front

Adding a ruche is such a quick and easy hack to add to the front neckline of the Tropo Camisole (or any fitted knit top, really), but it mixes things up ever so slightly and adds a bit of feminine interest. I think this ruching looks best on the V neck on the front of the camisole, but don’t let my opinion stifle you if you want to try it in another configuration! You can also decide how long you want to make your ruching. I opted for a pretty short ruche on this sample (which actually appears even shorter since I made the straps just a tiny bit too short and so it rides up a tiny bit too high), but you can extend the ruche further down to emphasize (or create the illusion of) cleavage between breasts. To sew a ruche into the neckline, use a piece of …

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Evelyn’s Girly Vintage Knit Dress

Adam’s grandmother Nanny Sheila (who is no longer with us) had a dear friend named Dorothy who we still make a point of visiting every time we are in Santa Barbara. Dorothy is a lovely woman who I bonded with about knitting as she was quite an avid knitter when she was younger. She has given me many patterns over the years and the last time we were there she gave me a bag of Debbie Bliss Cotton Cashmere yarn. Dorothy was enamored with Evelyn in the way that every (great-) grandmother figure should be so I thought it fitting that I knit a special dress for Evie out of the yarn that Dorothy gifted to me. I knit the dress a bit large so that it would last for as long as it could. I knit the largest size of the pattern which is sized for 24 months (which …

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Rainbow Zebra Baby Quilt

Rainbow zebra print whole cloth quilt. By Erin of Tuesday Stitches.

My friend Marissa is awesome. For many reasons. One of them is that she knows I’m a fabric junkie and she enables me. She brought me a whole stack of fabric the last time she visited that came from a stash she had inherited. She picked out everything that was pink and/or particularly loud to give to me. Like I said, she’s awesome. (I’ve made mother/daughter pajamas from some of what she gave me). One of the fabrics was this amazing rainbow zebra cotton broadcloth. Marissa was pregnant at the time and not-so-subtly hinted that she would be super happy to have a baby blanket made from the zebra fabric (and who needs subtlety between friends anyway). Well, I took her “hint” and made a baby blanket for her brand-new munchkin! I decided to make it a whole-cloth quilt (meaning no cutting and piecing to make the quilt top) and …

Tropo Camisole with Stretch Lace Straps

Tropo Camisole by Tuesday Stitches. Camisole sewing pattern.

I think I had even more fun coming up with hacks for the Tropo Camisole that I did for the pattern itself. And this might be my favorite hack! Replacing the fold-over-elastic with stretch lace is easy to do but it really glams up the camisole. (For another alternative to FOE, see our Tropo Camisole with ribbing hack). This example uses stretch lace that is 1″ wide and shows the full width across front and back but uses 1/2 width across the straps. You can use narrower or wider lace but do make sure that it is stretch lace as it will need to be able to stretch with the knit camisole on your body. If desired, start by finishing the neckline on the front and back of your camisole. I opted to serge the top of this fabric for a clean edge as I wanted it to look visually finished, …

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70’s Leopard Print Wrap Dress – Vintage Vogue 7705

Vintage Vogue 7705 - 1970's leopard print wrap dress. Sewn by Erin of Tuesday Stitches.

I like to sew a new dress every year to wear for winter events. This year I got this dress done just in the knick of time to wear to a secret surprise date night I planned for Adam in December. We dropped Biscuit off with her grandparents, got a hotel room in the city for the night so we wouldn’t have to rush to catch a ferry home, went out to a fancy dinner, and went to see Elf: The Musical. For the years that Adam and I were dating, my mom would always let him pick the Christmas movie that we would watch as a family when we were home for the holidays. Every year he picks Elf. So it has kind of become a running joke between us and it seemed the perfect, silly, fun thing to surprise him with. I did make a quick muslin of …

How to Sew Wide Swimsuit Straps

Our Laminaria Swimsuit was designed with spaghetti straps. One of the questions we get, particularly from those with larger busts looking for more support, is if it is possible to sew the Laminaria Swimsuit with wide straps. Yes! Below, we describe 3 different ways to sew wide swimsuit straps that can be substituted on the Laminaria Swimsuit or any other swimsuit with narrow straps that you want to increase the width. The 3 different methods are from fabric, from fabric covered elastic, and from decorative elastic. (Shown above is our Laminaria Swimsuit with contrast covered edges, wide decorative elastic straps (described below), hidden elastic join (tutorial coming soon), and raised leg (tutorial coming soon)). Fabric Straps: A simple way to increase the width of your straps is to sew fabric tubes. Cut four strips of fabric your desired length and 1/2″ wider than your desired width. Sew the fabric right …

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Full-On Monet Vintage Vogue 8551 Caftan

This caftan is a full-on Monet. (For those of you that don’t immediately know the Clueless reference, it’s something that’s beautiful from far away but up close, well…). Rather than pick apart what’s wrong with it (and why it went wrong and what I’d do different next time around) as is my tendency, I’m going to just take a step (or two) back. We went to Hawaii a couple of weeks ago and a side effect of trying to get a toddler to make a 3 hour time zone change is some pretty dang early mornings. But taking a step back from early-morning crankiness, it sure made for a pretty photoshoot! I felt to exotic and luxurious in my beautiful caftan watching a beautiful sunrise. I used vintage Vogue 8551 from 1973. I found it at the thrift store on the same day as the pink fabric and it seemed …

All About Fold-Over-Elastic (FOE) and How to Sew It

In developing our Tropo Camisole pattern it feels like we’ve sewn enough fold-over elastic (FOE) to reach to the moon and back! We’ve assembled here everything we’ve learned about FOE along the way to help you get started with sewing your own FOE! What is FOE? FOE stands for Fold-Over-Elastic. It is a lightweight elastic that has a crease down the middle of it. It often has one shiny side (usually considered the right side) and one matte side (usually considered the wrong side) and can be found in a variety of colors and a variety of patterns. The crease allows you to fold the elastic perfectly in half. FOE can be found in a variety of qualities and you may find some are soft while some are scratchy (particularly metallic colors). Some FOEs have better recovery than others (recovery is how well it springs back after you stretch it). …

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Tropo Camisole Hack: Knit Ribbing for Straps

We have a ton of really helpful sewalong blog posts planned for the Tropo Camisole. But I’m jumping right in with a pattern hack. Why? Because I’m wearing this finished camisole today so it felt fitting! If you live somewhere where it’s hard to get fold-over elastic (FOE) or if you have very sensitive skin that doesn’t tolerate FOE or if you’re just wanting to further increase what you can do with your Tropo Camisole pattern, this is a great hack for you. To start you’ll need ribbing or even just a length of any lightweight, stretchy knit. I happened to have 1 3/4″  wide strips of baby rib already, but you can cut  strips yourself. It’s up to you how wide you want the strips to be – I suggest reading through all of the tutorial first as it talks you through a few different considerations you’ll need to …